Roll Call

Dr.Melaxin Melting Cleanser

33 ingredients.

The roll

1 of 33

“Water?”Here!

SolventMineral

Why it’s here: Serves as the solvent base that dissolves or disperses other ingredients, forming the foundation of most creams, lotions, shampoos, and gels.

Plain water, almost always the largest ingredient by weight in a formula and typically purified or deionized before use.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Present in nearly all rinse-off and leave-on products; its listing high on an ingredient list simply reflects that it makes up most of the product's weight, not a formulation choice worth scrutinizing.

2 of 33

“Glycerin?”Here!glycerin, glycerol

HumectantConditioning agentVaries by source

Why it’s here: A humectant — it pulls water from the air and from deeper skin layers to the surface, helping products feel less drying and skin feel softer. It also helps stabilize emulsions and can improve the texture of soaps and lotions.

A small, simple molecule with three water-loving arms, produced by splitting fats and oils (plant or animal) or made synthetically. It has been a staple of skincare and soap for over a century.

What the evidence says

One of the most studied humectants in cosmetics. CIR has reviewed it as safe for use in cosmetic products. Occasional reports of mild irritation or a sticky feel exist at high concentrations, but no established safety concern at typical use levels.

Context

Works in both rinse-off and leave-on products. At very high concentrations in low-humidity conditions it can theoretically pull water out of skin rather than in, but this is not how it behaves at the levels used in commercial formulas.

Rumors

  1. Glycerin pulls water out of the skin in dry air, leaving it drier than before.

    Does not support — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    A claim about humectants in low humidity as a group, not this substance alone.

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Bareskinnaturals — a brand: sells natural skincare products and skincare-making courses
      How we know who this is
      • “Bareskinnaturals was born out of a passionate desire to promote the use of natural and organic skin care products and to teach others how to do so, having personally experienced the amazingly profound benefits in using plants and plant extracts and other naturally derived ingredients in taking care of my skin and that of my family.” (their page)
      • “The aim of Bareskinnaturals is to bring you the Very Best Natural and Organic skin care classes using the most effective teaching/learning techniques where learning goes hand in glove with teaching, as well as the most effective and highly potent natural ingredients, to kindle and ignite your passion for making natural skin care products, and transform you from being a novice to becoming a pro in making natural skincare products.” (their page)
Also in 8 other products →

3 of 33

“Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate?”Here!

SurfactantConditioning agentSolventPlant

Why it’s here: It cleanses and helps other surfactants foam more gently, which is why it appears in baby shampoos, facial cleansers, and other formulas pitched as gentle on skin and eyes.

A mild surfactant made by combining coconut-derived fatty acids with amino acid chemistry, placing it in the amphoteric surfactant family alongside ingredients like cocamidopropyl betaine.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

As with most surfactants, mildness and residual impurity levels depend on manufacturing quality rather than the ingredient's basic chemistry; the CIR review covered both rinse-off and leave-on uses.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

4 of 33

“1,2-Hexanediol?”Here!

SolventSynthetic

Why it’s here: Serves multiple functions: as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a humectant contributing to texture, and notably as a preservative booster that enhances the effectiveness of other preservative systems, allowing some formulas to reduce traditional preservative levels.

A small glycol molecule used widely in cosmetic formulations, structurally similar to other diols like propanediol.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products; its preservative-boosting function depends on the overall formulation and concentration.

5 of 33

“Sodium chloride?”Here!table salt

ThickenerExfoliantMineral

Why it’s here: In liquid soaps and shampoos, salt is used to thicken the formula by changing how surfactant molecules pack together — a cheap and effective way to get a product from watery to gel-like without adding a separate thickening ingredient. In scrubs, larger salt crystals serve as a physical exfoliant.

The same compound as ordinary table salt, either mined from underground deposits or evaporated from seawater. In cosmetics it usually appears as a fine or coarse white crystal or dissolved in water.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

In rinse-off products used as a thickener, it is present briefly and at levels well below anything of concern. In leave-on scrubs, the concern is mechanical (abrasion from the crystal edges) rather than chemical, and depends entirely on how coarse the grain is and how hard it is applied.

Rumors

  1. Salt in shampoo strips a keratin treatment and dries out the hair.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Keragen — a brand: sells keratin haircare products; a brand of Chemco Corp
      How we know who this is
      • “Keragen is a brand of Chemco Corp, legally registered and operating in the United States.” (their page)
Also used as a supplement, and in 1 other product →

6 of 33

“Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate?”Here!

Conditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Functions as a mild, nonionic emulsifier and surfactant, helping oil and water phases blend and contributing light cleansing or foaming to a formula without the harshness of some traditional surfactants.

A polyglycerol ester made by combining glycerin units with lauric acid, a fatty acid commonly derived from coconut or palm oil.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Rinse-off and leave-on uses are both common for this class of emulsifier, with low irritation reported at typical use concentrations.

Rumors

  1. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate softens the skin.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  2. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is non-comedogenic and does not clog pores or cause acne.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  3. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a gentle, non-irritating cleanser suitable for sensitive skin.

    Does not support — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: case report patient with suspected cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis; general cosmetic users in patch-test panels.

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

  4. Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate moisturizes skin by helping it hold water.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Lesielle — a brand: sells personalised adaptive skincare system (device and refills)
      How we know who this is
      • “¿En qué se diferencia Lesielle de otras marcas de tratamientos personalizados?” (their page)
      • “El sistema de cosmética personalizada para una piel en constante evolución, que utiliza ingredientes activos con eficacia científicamente probada para crear un tratamiento adaptado al Estado de la Piel de cada día.” (their page)

7 of 33

“Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate?”Here!

Conditioning agentSurfactantPlant

Why it’s here: Used as a gentle cleansing agent in facial and body washes, prized by formulators for producing a creamy lather while being less stripping to skin's natural oils than many traditional sulfate surfactants.

An amino acid-based surfactant made by combining coconut-derived fatty acids with glycine, an amino acid, then neutralizing with potassium hydroxide.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

As a rinse-off cleansing ingredient, contact time on skin is brief, which is relevant to its generally mild irritation profile.

8 of 33

“Sorbitol?”Here!

HumectantOtherConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: It draws and holds moisture in the skin, and helps keep formulas from drying out or thickening over time.

A sugar alcohol naturally found in fruits like apples and pears, also produced industrially from corn syrup for use in food and cosmetics.

What the evidence says

Sorbitol has a long history of use in foods, oral care, and skin products. Regulatory and safety reviews have not identified concerns at the levels used in cosmetics.

Rumors

  1. Sorbitol in toothpaste causes problems for people with sorbitol intolerance or fructose malabsorption.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Ben&Anna — a brand: makes and sells certified natural cosmetics in plastic-free packaging
      How we know who this is
      • “Ben&Anna bridges the gap between drugstore and premium organic products.” (their page)
      • “We produce certified natural cosmetics in plastic-free packaging.” (their page)
  2. Sorbitol keeps skin hydrated and soft.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • KIKO MILANO — a brand: sells its own makeup and cosmetics
      How we know who this is
      • “KIKO MILANO captures global trends and reinterprets them through its distinctive Italian style to inspire self-expression.” (their page)
      • “Italian Make-Up & Cosmetics Online | KIKO MILANO” (their page)
  3. Sorbitol repairs the skin barrier and protects skin against harsh weather.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  4. Sorbitol in dog toothpaste causes diarrhea in dogs.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Oxyfresh — a brand: sells pet dental, pet odor and pet wellness products
      How we know who this is
      • “At Oxyfresh, we've spent the last 30+ years creating Damn Good Pet Care.” (their page)
      • “We specialize in innovative pet dental, pet odor, and pet wellness products that actually work—because your best friend deserves nothing less.” (their page)
  5. Sorbitol in toothpaste does not cause cavities.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Tom’s of Maine — a brand: makes and sells natural personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Here at Tom’s of Maine, our naturally high standards drive our commitment to create a healthy future for people and the planet.” (their page)
      • “We’ve spent more than 50 years mixing scientific know-how, naturally sourced and derived ingredients, and a dash of ingenuity (okay, a lot of ingenuity) to make effective natural products that’ll make you feel good, and smell good, too.” (their page)

9 of 33

“Butylene Glycol?”Here!

HumectantFragranceConditioning agentSolventThickenerSynthetic

Why it’s here: Draws in moisture, helps dissolve other ingredients, and gives formulas a lighter, less sticky feel than some other humectants.

A small synthetic molecule from the alcohol family, used as a clear, colorless liquid.

What the evidence says

The only cited study is a retrospective patch-testing review of 893 dermatology clinic patients already undergoing allergy evaluation, not a sample of general cosmetic users. It found 1.46% of these patients reacted to butylene glycol on patch testing, with a notable cross-reactivity to propylene glycol in BG-allergic patients. This shows contact allergy to butylene glycol can occur in individuals prone to allergic contact dermatitis, but it does not quantify risk at typical cosmetic-use concentrations or in the general population, and no rinse-off versus leave-on distinction is made.

Context

CIR review covers use across both rinse-off and leave-on product types.

Rumors

  1. Butylene glycol clogs pores and causes breakouts, blackheads and whiteheads in acne-prone skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  2. Butylene glycol carries harmful chemicals deeper into the skin and into the body.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sohma Naturals — a brand: sells its own natural and organic skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Sohma Naturals is a mother and daughter team of healthcare professionals, with over 60 years of research and experience between them.” (their page)
      • “They've spent over 5 years researching and testing the purest raw materials for their exclusive skincare formulations, using selectively sourced ingredients to produce natural and mostly organic products that are of the highest quality and purest form.” (their page)
  3. Butylene glycol causes skin irritation and allergic reactions, especially in sensitive skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sohma Naturals — a brand: sells its own natural and organic skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Sohma Naturals is a mother and daughter team of healthcare professionals, with over 60 years of research and experience between them.” (their page)
      • “They've spent over 5 years researching and testing the purest raw materials for their exclusive skincare formulations, using selectively sourced ingredients to produce natural and mostly organic products that are of the highest quality and purest form.” (their page)
  4. Butylene glycol hydrates skin and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sciencetimes.com — a publisher: science news and reference content
      How we know who this is
      • “Sciencetimes.com prides itself in providing a complete informational and content package for science enthusiasts in the web who aim to remain updated and well-informed regarding a wide array of topics of their interest.” (their page)
      • “We are a source for original and timely science and research information as well as breaking news in the various fields we represent.” (their page)
  5. Butylene glycol causes systemic organ toxicity, contact dermatitis and hives even at low concentrations.

    Does not supporthealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: single case report of a 28-year-old woman with cosmetic contact dermatitis.

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Dubois Beauty — a brand: sells its own clean skincare line
      How we know who this is
      • “Dubois Beauty was created by esthetician, spa owner, and wellness expert Denise Dubois.” (their page)
      • “So she created a line of clean and simple skincare to make our busy lives a little easier.” (their page)
Also in 2 other products →

10 of 33

“Parfum?”Here!

OtherFragrance

What “Fragrance” can hold

“Fragrance” — also written “Parfum” or “Aroma” — is one word standing in for a scent blend that can be dozens of separate ingredients. It is the one term the rules let a maker leave otherwise undisclosed, to protect the formula, so this single word is as far inside it as the label goes.

The rules do force some of it out: certain fragrance ingredients known to cause allergic reactions must be named on their own once they pass a set amount. When they are, you will see them listed separately — and we mark them.

That named-allergen list is growing — EU rules expanded it from 26 substances to about 80, phasing onto labels through 2028. Roll Call marks the long-established set for now, with more being added. So a label with nothing marked is not a promise there are none; it means none from the set we mark are separately listed.

How fragrance disclosure works

11 of 33

“Ethylhexylglycerin?”Here!

OtherConditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: It boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, allowing formulators to use lower amounts of them, and it also softens skin feel and can reduce the sharpness of some preservative systems' scent.

A synthetic compound derived from glycerin, commonly used alongside preservatives rather than as one on its own.

What the evidence says

A large North American patch-test study found that ethylhexylglycerin caused allergic patch-test reactions in only 0.25% of tested patients, a rate the authors describe as similar to other low-allergenic preservatives like parabens and phenoxyethanol. When reactions did occur, they were most often linked to personal care products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams, and were judged clinically relevant in about 80% of positive cases. This is a single retrospective patch-test dataset without dose-response or long-term outcome data, and it indicates a rare but real contact-allergy potential rather than a common or well-established risk.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products, almost always at concentrations under 1%, paired with a primary preservative rather than replacing one.

Rumors

  1. Ethylhexylglycerin is a contact allergen that causes dermatitis and skin irritation, so it should be avoided in skin care.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Million Marker — a brand: sells mail-in chemical exposure testing and product recommendations
      How we know who this is
      • “Million Marker is a company dedicated to helping people understand and reduce their exposure to toxic chemicals through mail-in testing, education, and approved product recommendations.” (their page)
  2. Ethylhexylglycerin relieves itching and helps treat eczema and dry skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Puracy — a brand: sells plant-based cleaning and personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Our founder Sean Busch started Puracy with a single goal: to make effective, plant-based cleaning and personal care products that were gentle enough to use around his growing family.” (their page)
  3. Ethylhexylglycerin fights body odor by inhibiting odor-causing bacteria.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Beia — a brand: sells clean body care products for sweat, odor and body blemishes
      How we know who this is
      • “Beia is clean, functional body care for targeted needs, designed so you never have to compromise how you feel, no matter how busy your day gets.” (their page)
      • “We create solution-based products targeted for the concerns women actually deal with like: sweat, odor, and body blemishes.” (their page)
  4. Ethylhexylglycerin moisturizes skin by acting as a humectant that holds in moisture.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Puracy — a brand: sells plant-based cleaning and personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Our founder Sean Busch started Puracy with a single goal: to make effective, plant-based cleaning and personal care products that were gentle enough to use around his growing family.” (their page)
  5. Ethylhexylglycerin irritates the skin and eyes.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Derm Review — a publisher: skincare review site affiliated with Formulyst and Carrot & Stick, whose products it reviews and ranks
      How we know who this is
      • “The Derm Review launched in 2013 as a comprehensive resource on skincare products, cosmetic ingredients and beauty how to’s.” (their page)
      • “THIS SITE IS AFFILIATED WITH FORMULYST AND CARROT & STICK, WHOSE PRODUCTS ARE AMONG THOSE WE REVIEW AND RANK.” (their page)
Also in 3 other products →

12 of 33

“Hexylene Glycol?”Here!

EmulsifierFragranceConditioning agentSolventSurfactantSynthetic

Why it’s here: Helps dissolve other ingredients, thins out thick formulas, and can improve how a product spreads on skin.

A synthetic glycol, a small organic molecule related to propylene glycol, used as a liquid solvent and texture modifier in cosmetic formulas.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

The CIR safety assessment notes potential for irritation relates to concentration, and finished products are expected to be formulated to be non-irritating.

Rumors

  1. Hexylene glycol is a humectant that draws moisture into the skin and keeps it hydrated.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Pink Foundry — a brand: sells pharma quality skincare
      How we know who this is
      • “The Pink Foundry offers Pharma Quality Skincare.” (their page)
  2. Hexylene glycol is a penetration enhancer that carries other chemicals through the skin into the body.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: ex vivo human breast skin treated with a 12% Hexylene Glycol pharmaceutical cream formulation.

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Bubble & Bee Organic — a brand: makes and sells certified organic personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “In 2007 Bubble & Bee Organic was born.” (their page)
      • “Certified organic since 2009, we blend, bottle and ship to you directly from our facility in Bountiful Utah.” (their page)
  3. Hexylene glycol causes free radical damage as the body breaks it down.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    • OECD SIDS HEXYLENE GLYCOL (Regulatory) · Funded by United Kingdom (Environment Agency) under the ICCA Initiative; underlying studies largely from Shell Chemicals / Elf Atochem

    Who’s saying this

    • Bubble & Bee Organic — a brand: makes and sells certified organic personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “In 2007 Bubble & Bee Organic was born.” (their page)
      • “Certified organic since 2009, we blend, bottle and ship to you directly from our facility in Bountiful Utah.” (their page)
  4. Hexylene glycol is a skin and eye irritant that is corrosive to these tissues.

    Does not support — establishedhealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Bubble & Bee Organic — a brand: makes and sells certified organic personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “In 2007 Bubble & Bee Organic was born.” (their page)
      • “Certified organic since 2009, we blend, bottle and ship to you directly from our facility in Bountiful Utah.” (their page)
  5. Hexylene glycol boosts preservatives, so less preservative is needed and skin is less likely to become sensitised.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Paula's Choice — a brand: sells its own skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Copyright © Paula's Choice GENERAL CONDITIONS PRIVACY POLICY COOKIE POLICY COOKIE SETTINGS” (their page)
      • “Our formulas do what they say, every single time.” (their page)

13 of 33

“Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate?”Here!EDDS

Chelating agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: It binds trace metal ions in a formula, which keeps the product stable, prevents discoloration, and helps preservatives and surfactants work as intended.

A chelating agent, chemically related to EDTA but considered more readily biodegradable. It is made from ethylenediamine and succinic acid.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

14 of 33

“Citric Acid?”Here!the acid in citrus fruit

pH adjusterChelating agentExfoliantVaries by source

Why it’s here: Mainly used to adjust pH, bringing a formula down to a target acidity so it feels right on skin and hair and so other ingredients — some preservatives and thickeners in particular — perform as intended. It also shows up as a mild exfoliant at higher concentrations, and as a chelating agent that binds trace metals to keep a formula stable.

An organic acid found naturally in lemons, limes, and other citrus fruit, though the version in most products is made by fermenting sugar with a mold, Aspergillus niger, rather than squeezed from fruit. It is a fine white crystalline powder that dissolves readily in water.

What the evidence says

Citric acid has a long history of use in food and cosmetics and is reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, which found it safe as used. It can be irritating to broken or very sensitive skin at higher concentrations, which is a known and expected effect of most acids rather than a special hazard of this one.

Context

At the low levels used for pH adjustment, effects on skin are negligible. At the higher concentrations sometimes used for exfoliation, mild stinging or redness is possible, especially on sensitive skin, and sun sensitivity can increase slightly with regular use of acid exfoliants — sunscreen is the standard advice alongside them.

Rumors

  1. Citric acid helps with dandruff and dry scalp by balancing scalp pH.

    Does not supporthealth and safety evidence

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Livara — a brand: sells natural shea butter hair and skin care products
      How we know who this is
      • “At Livara, we believe that the body is a gem – a jewel that adorns our inner self.” (their page)
      • “Our products are Packed with Ugandan butters and oils, and exotic essential oils to soften and strengthen all sorts of hair.” (their page)
  2. Citric acid in hair care seals the hair cuticle, making hair shinier.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Livara — a brand: sells natural shea butter hair and skin care products
      How we know who this is
      • “At Livara, we believe that the body is a gem – a jewel that adorns our inner self.” (their page)
      • “Our products are Packed with Ugandan butters and oils, and exotic essential oils to soften and strengthen all sorts of hair.” (their page)
  3. Citric acid in skin care causes skin irritation.

    Does not support — establishedhealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Medical News Today — a publisher: health information; trademark of Healthline Media, an RVO Health company
      How we know who this is
      • “The Medical News Today team is committed to bringing you accurate, trustworthy, and unbiased health information.” (their page)
      • “Healthline Media is an RVO Health Company.” (their page)
  4. Citric acid exfoliates the skin, shedding dead cells to reveal brighter skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Refinery29 — a publisher: lifestyle, fashion and beauty media; earns commission on linked products
      How we know who this is
      • “Refinery29 is a creative global platform for the curious and the culturally tapped in.” (their page)
      • “If you purchase any of these products, we may earn a commission.” (their page)
  5. Citric acid strengthens damaged hair by reinforcing weakened hair bonds.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • L'Oréal Paris — a brand: sells cosmetics: makeup, skincare and haircare
      How we know who this is
      • “As the biggest beauty brand in the world, L'Oréal Paris has an unparalleled commitment to technology, research and innovation and providing groundbreaking, high-quality products for women and men of all ages and ethnicities.” (their page)
Also used as a supplement, and in 8 other products →

15 of 33

“Niacinamide?”Here!vitamin B3

Conditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: Used for its effects on skin appearance and barrier function; formulators include it to help with the look of skin tone, texture, and moisture retention.

A form of vitamin B3 (niacin) that is water-soluble and commonly formulated into serums, moisturizers, and treatment products.

What the evidence says

Niacinamide has a substantial body of published research, including clinical trials, supporting benefits for skin barrier function and appearance at typical cosmetic concentrations (around 2-5%). CIR has reviewed it as safe for use in cosmetics.

Context

Most studied in leave-on products at concentrations in the low single-digit percentages; effects described in the literature are tied to that range.

16 of 33

“Propanediol?”Here!

SolventThickenerVaries by source

Why it’s here: Used as a humectant and solvent, helping products draw and hold moisture and helping dissolve other ingredients like fragrance and preservatives.

A small organic molecule, often plant-derived from corn sugar fermentation, that is a clear, odorless liquid.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Propanediol increases penetration of harmful ingredients into the skin.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • draxe.com — we couldn’t open the site to see who runs it
  2. Propanediol helps skin absorb the other ingredients in a product, making them more effective.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Healthline — a publisher: health information publisher; part of RVO Health, backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group's Optum
      How we know who this is
      • “Healthline is a digital publisher and does not offer personal health or medical advice.” (their page)
      • “Healthline is part of RVO Health, a company backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group’s Optum.” (their page)
  3. Propanediol is good for acne-prone and oily skin because it removes excess oil and prevents clogged pores.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  4. Propanediol moisturizes and hydrates the skin, reducing water loss.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  5. Propanediol can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
Also in 2 other products →

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“Camellia Japonica Flower Extract?”Here!Japanese camellia flower extract

EmollientConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Added to formulations as an antioxidant and conditioning ingredient, intended to help protect skin from oxidative stress and contribute a soft marketing appeal tied to traditional use.

An extract derived from the flowers of the camellia plant, the same genus that produces tea leaves, valued for its polyphenol content.

What the evidence says

Laboratory studies on camellia flower polyphenols show antioxidant activity in vitro, but there is limited clinical research confirming a measurable benefit when used at typical cosmetic concentrations on skin.

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“Decyl Glucoside?”Here!

SurfactantEmulsifierPlant

Why it’s here: It cleans by lifting dirt and oil, and it foams, but more gently than harsher sulfate surfactants, which makes it popular in products for sensitive skin and baby washes.

A mild, sugar-based surfactant made by combining corn or coconut-derived glucose with decyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Decyl glucoside causes allergic contact dermatitis (skin irritation, redness, itching, burning) in some people.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Minimalist — a brand: sells its own skincare, hair and body care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Minimalist is a high-performance skincare brand rooted in scientific research.” (their page)
      • “With products ranging from cleansers, serums, moisturizers, and sunscreens, Minimalist offers highly efficacious & targeted solutions for a variety of skin, hair, and body concerns like acne, pigmentation, ageing, dehydration, hair fall, and dandruff, amongst others” (their page)
  2. Decyl glucoside is gentle and non-irritating, suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin.

    Does not support — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Branch Basics — a brand: sells its own non-toxic cleaning products
      How we know who this is
      • “At Branch Basics, our mission is simple: to help people live healthier lives by removing products with harmful chemicals from their homes.” (their page)
      • “Branch Basics officially hit Target shelves, making it more accessible than ever for families to choose human-safe cleaning.” (their page)
  3. Decyl glucoside does not strip hair and preserves moisture, unlike sulfate shampoos.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Vinci Hair Clinic — a brand: sells hair transplant and hair loss treatments; Vinci Medical Group
      How we know who this is
      • “Contact Vinci Hair Clinic today to get your personalised treatment plan and quote.” (their page)
      • “Contact the friendly team at Vinci Medical Group and ask about treatment finance.” (their page)
  4. Decyl glucoside is biodegradable and environmentally safe.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Branch Basics — a brand: sells its own non-toxic cleaning products
      How we know who this is
      • “At Branch Basics, our mission is simple: to help people live healthier lives by removing products with harmful chemicals from their homes.” (their page)
      • “Branch Basics officially hit Target shelves, making it more accessible than ever for families to choose human-safe cleaning.” (their page)
  5. Decyl glucoside cleanses without stripping skin lipids, helping preserve the skin barrier.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • La Pink — a brand: sells microplastic-free beauty products
      How we know who this is
      • “La Pink is India’s 1st 100% microplastic-free formulation beauty brand.” (their page)
Also in 1 other product →

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“Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract?”Here!red clover extract

OtherPlant

Why it’s here: Used in skincare for purported antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties, sometimes marketed toward mature skin formulations due to its isoflavone content.

An extract from the flowers of red clover, a plant notable for containing isoflavones, plant compounds structurally similar to estrogen.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

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“Aloe barbadensis leaf extract?”Here!aloe vera

HumectantConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: It's included mainly for its humectant and soothing reputation, drawing in moisture and giving a calming feel to lotions, gels, and after-sun products. It's as much a marketing signal as a functional ingredient in many formulas.

An extract taken from the leaves of the aloe vera plant, typically the gel-like inner portion. It can appear as a liquid, powder, or thicker concentrate depending on how it's processed.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

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“Camellia sinensis leaf extract?”Here!green tea extract

AntioxidantConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: It is included in formulations mainly as an antioxidant, intended to help protect other ingredients and, by extension, skin from oxidative damage. It is also sometimes used for a mild conditioning effect.

An extract made from the leaves of the tea plant, Camellia sinensis, the same plant used to produce green, black, and white tea. It is rich in polyphenol compounds, particularly catechins.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

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“Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract?”Here!gotu kola extract, cica

Conditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Included for its reputed soothing and skin-conditioning effects, often in formulas aimed at sensitive or compromised skin barriers; contains compounds called triterpenoids believed to support these effects.

An extract from the leaves of Centella asiatica, a creeping plant long used in traditional Asian medicine and now a prominent ingredient in skincare, especially in products marketed as calming or barrier-supporting.

What the evidence says

The cited systematic review examines whether topical or oral Centella asiatica extract speeds wound healing; it reports on wound contraction, re-epithelialization, erythema and pain scores across four small clinical trials, and concludes possible benefit. It does not address any safety concern such as irritation, sensitization, or other adverse effects from cosmetic leave-on or rinse-off use, so no concern can be graded from this source.

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“Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract?”Here!mozuku seaweed extract

Conditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Formulators include it for its humectant and film-forming properties, and it is often marketed as a conditioning or soothing agent in skin and hair products.

An extract derived from Cladosiphon okamuranus, a species of brown seaweed cultivated mainly in Okinawa, Japan. It is best known as a source of fucoidan, a sulfated polysaccharide found in the slimy coating of the seaweed.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

24 of 33

“Salix Alba Bark Extract?”Here!white willow bark extract

OtherConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Used in skincare formulations as a plant-derived source of mild salicylate activity, often marketed for a gentle exfoliating or soothing effect on skin.

An extract made from the bark of the white willow tree, a traditional source of salicin, a compound chemically related to salicylic acid.

What the evidence says

Salicin can convert to salicylic acid-like compounds, but concentrations in cosmetic extracts are generally low and variable by batch, so the degree of exfoliating or anti-inflammatory effect is hard to standardize. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has not issued a dedicated safety finding specific to this extract; general botanical extract safety assessments tend to focus on irritation and sensitization potential rather than exfoliation claims.

Rumors

  1. People allergic to salicylates (aspirin) should avoid willow bark extract because it can trigger a reaction.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: individuals with known salicylate/aspirin sensitivity.

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  2. Willow bark extract is a natural form of salicylic acid that keeps pores clear and treats acne.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Dermalogica — a brand: sells professional-grade skin care products and services
      How we know who this is
      • “Under her leadership, Dermalogica has grown to be the leading professional skin care brand, used by more than 100,000 skin therapists in more than 100 countries around the world.” (their page)
      • “We offer professional-grade skin care education, products, and services to skin therapists and customers alike.” (their page)
  3. Willow bark extract is gentler than synthetic salicylic acid and less likely to cause dryness or irritation.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Dermalogica — a brand: sells professional-grade skin care products and services
      How we know who this is
      • “Under her leadership, Dermalogica has grown to be the leading professional skin care brand, used by more than 100,000 skin therapists in more than 100 countries around the world.” (their page)
      • “We offer professional-grade skin care education, products, and services to skin therapists and customers alike.” (their page)
  4. Willow bark extract in shampoo controls dandruff by exfoliating flakes and soothing the scalp.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  5. White willow bark extract soothes irritated skin, reduces inflammation and helps wounds heal.

    Does not supporthealth and safety evidence

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

25 of 33

“Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract?”Here!lemon myrtle leaf extract

OtherConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Used primarily as a natural fragrance component and for its conditioning properties, lending products a citrus scent without synthetic fragrance compounds.

An extract from the leaves of lemon myrtle, an Australian native tree known for its strong citrus aroma, largely attributed to high citral content.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Sensitization potential is concentration-dependent and relevant primarily to leave-on products where citral-containing fragrance ingredients have longer skin contact.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

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“Coffea Arabica Seed Extract?”Here!coffee bean extract

OtherConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Added to formulations primarily as an antioxidant, and sometimes for its conditioning properties or distinctive scent.

An extract derived from the seeds (beans) of the Coffea arabica plant, containing compounds such as chlorogenic acid and caffeine.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Coffea arabica seed extract has a slimming effect on skin because its caffeine breaks down fat cells, reducing cellulite.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  2. Coffea arabica seed extract is an antioxidant that fights skin aging and protects skin from pollution and UV damage.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Paula's Choice — a brand: sells its own skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Copyright © Paula's Choice GENERAL CONDITIONS PRIVACY POLICY COOKIE POLICY COOKIE SETTINGS” (their page)
      • “Our formulas do what they say, every single time.” (their page)
Also in 1 other product →

27 of 33

“Bioflavonoids?”Here!citrus bioflavonoids

Conditioning agentOtherPlant

Why it’s here: Included in formulations mainly as an antioxidant, intended to help stabilize other ingredients or support the product's overall preservative system against oxidation.

A broad term for a class of plant compounds, usually extracted from citrus fruit peel or pulp, that includes substances like hesperidin and naringin. The exact composition varies depending on the plant source and extraction method.

What the evidence says

Bioflavonoids as a group have been studied extensively for oral and nutritional effects, but cosmetic-specific safety and efficacy data are limited and vary by the particular mixture used, since "bioflavonoids" is not a single defined substance.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

28 of 33

“Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract?”Here!bergamot leaf extract

OtherPlant

Why it’s here: Used as a conditioning agent and occasionally for fragrance, contributing a light citrus note and intended skin-feel benefits.

An extract made from the leaves of the bergamot orange tree (Citrus aurantium bergamia), distinct from bergamot peel oil, which is the part of the plant more commonly associated with fragrance use.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

29 of 33

“Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract?”Here!broccoli extract

OtherPlant

Why it’s here: Used in cosmetic formulations as an antioxidant and conditioning ingredient, sometimes marketed for its plant-derived nutrient content.

An extract made from broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica), typically from the seed, sprout, or whole plant, containing compounds such as glucosinolates and sulforaphane precursors.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

30 of 33

“Calamine?”Here!

OtherMineral

Why it’s here: Long used in skincare to soothe irritated skin and as a mild colorant; zinc oxide component also contributes mild astringent and protective qualities.

A mineral preparation consisting primarily of zinc oxide with a small amount of iron oxide, which gives it a characteristic pink color.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

FDA skin protectant monograph specifies calamine for topical use to protect and help relieve minor skin irritations.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

31 of 33

“Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract?”Here!Japanese red pine needle extract

PreservativeAntioxidantPlant

Why it’s here: Included in formulas for its reputed antioxidant and conditioning properties, and sometimes for a subtle natural scent contribution.

An extract made from the needles of the Japanese red pine tree.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

32 of 33

“CI 17200?”Here!Acid Red 33

ColorantSynthetic

Why it’s here: It gives color to products like soaps, bath products, and some cosmetics, allowing a consistent, vivid red-pink hue batch after batch.

A synthetic azo dye identified by its Colour Index number, producing a bright pink-red shade. It is water-soluble and used to tint formulas rather than to do anything to the skin.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

In the United States, D&C Red No. 33 is not approved for use in products intended for use in the area of the eye.

Rumors

  1. D&C Red 33 (CI 17200) has immune or allergenic effects.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • ewg.org — we couldn’t open the site to see who runs it
  2. Coal tar dyes such as D&C Red 33 contribute to ADD, ADHD and asthma.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    A claim about coal tar dyes as a group, not this substance alone.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Chalkboard — a publisher: wellness magazine launched by Pressed Juicery
      How we know who this is
      • “Launched by Pressed Juicery in 2012, The Chalkboard brings our wellness-minded readers daily content to help you live your best life through wellness, nutrition, self-care + great design.” (their page)
  3. Red 33 (CI 17200) in cosmetics causes allergic skin reactions such as contact allergy, hives, itching and burning.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Beautiful With Brains — an individual: skincare blog and product reviews by founder Giorgia Guazzarotti; sells her skincare book
      How we know who this is
      • “We do skincare differently at Beautiful With Brains.” (their page)
      • “Giorgia Guazzarotti (or Gio, as her readers call her!) is best known for her popular skincare blog and as the author of “ Skincare That Works: Your No-Nonsense Guide To Glowing, Younger-Looking Skin .”” (their page)
  4. CI 17200 (Red 33) can cause skin irritation in sensitive people.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

33 of 33

“CI 19140?”Here!Tartrazine, FD&C Yellow 5

ColorantSynthetic

Why it’s here: Gives products a bright yellow hue; used purely for visual appearance.

A synthetic yellow dye used to color cosmetics, foods, and medications.

What the evidence says

Approved for cosmetic use by regulatory bodies including the FDA and EU. It is a recognized trigger for allergic reactions, including hives, in a small subset of sensitive individuals, most notably documented in food and drug contexts. Cosmetic-specific reaction data is more limited.

Context

Relevant mainly for those with a known sensitivity to the dye; exposure through cosmetics is typically far lower and more localized than through ingestion.

Educational information, not medical or safety advice. Consult a professional for allergies or medical concerns.