Roll Call

“UREA?”Here!

HumectantExfoliantSynthetic

Appears in 2 scanned products.

In personal care

A small organic molecule that is a natural component of human skin, part of what's called the skin's 'natural moisturizing factor.' Cosmetic-grade urea is manufactured synthetically rather than sourced from urine, despite the ingredient's old reputation.

Why it’s used

At low concentrations it draws water into the outer skin layer as a humectant. At higher concentrations, generally above 10 percent, it also loosens the bonds between dead skin cells, giving it a mild exfoliating or keratolytic effect used in treatments for very dry, rough, or thickened skin.

What the evidence says

The CIR safety panel reviewed urea used in cosmetics at concentrations of 0.01% to 10% and concluded it is safe as used, based on absorption, toxicity, genotoxicity, reproductive, and carcinogenicity data. Some irritation was reported in a few studies at higher concentrations (20% and above) and burning sensations were noted mainly in treatment of already-diseased skin rather than typical cosmetic use, but the panel found no genotoxic or carcinogenic concern at use levels. The report also notes urea can increase skin penetration of other applied chemicals, which formulators are advised to consider.

Context

Effect and irritation potential are dose-dependent: a 2-5% concentration in a daily lotion behaves very differently from a 20-40% concentration in a targeted foot cream or callus treatment. Leave-on use is the relevant context here since urea's job is ongoing hydration or exfoliation.

Rumors

  1. Urea improves dry, rough, scaly skin by hydrating it and reducing the buildup of dead skin cells.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • CeraVe — a brand: sells skincare and haircare products
      How we know who this is
      • “CeraVe cleanses without stripping, for a stronger skin barrier from day 1.” (their page)
      • “Welcome to CeraVe: Your Skincare & Haircare Expert | CeraVe” (their page)

Where it shows up