Roll Call

Dr. Scholl's Severe Cracked Heel Repair Restoring Balm

16 ingredients.

The roll

1 of 16

“Propylene Glycol?”Here!

HumectantConditioning agentSolventThickenerVaries by source

Why it’s here: It draws and holds moisture in the skin, helps dissolve other ingredients, and improves the spreadability and feel of a formula. It is one of the most common humectant and solvent ingredients in cosmetics.

A small, colorless, odorless synthetic liquid derived from petroleum or, increasingly, from plant sources. It mixes freely with water and many other ingredients.

What the evidence says

The cited CIR safety review concludes that propylene glycol is generally nontoxic, noncarcinogenic, and does not cause dermal sensitization at the concentrations used in cosmetics, but it notes that irritation concerns remained. The panel's conclusion of safety was conditional on formulations being nonirritating, meaning irritation potential at certain concentrations or on compromised skin is acknowledged but not fully quantified in this abstract. No dose-response data, population specifics, or irritation thresholds are given in the available text.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products across a wide concentration range; irritation risk, where it exists, rises with concentration and is more relevant to leave-on use on sensitive or broken skin.

Rumors

  1. Propylene glycol is a potentially harmful, petroleum-derived chemical that shouldn't be put on the body.

    Does not support — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sole Toscana — a brand: sells natural Italian skincare and haircare
      How we know who this is
      • “Sole Toscana is the first Italian seed-to-skin skincare and haircare brought to the U.S.” (their page)
  2. Propylene glycol in skin and hair products penetrates the skin and can carry ingredients into the bloodstream.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sole Toscana — a brand: sells natural Italian skincare and haircare
      How we know who this is
      • “Sole Toscana is the first Italian seed-to-skin skincare and haircare brought to the U.S.” (their page)
  3. Propylene glycol dries out the skin, leading to irritation and breakouts.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Nakin — a brand: sells natural anti-ageing skincare
      How we know who this is
      • “Nakin was founded by Cris Beetham in 2016.” (their page)
      • “Nakin produce award-winning natural anti-ageing skincare products .” (their page)
  4. Propylene glycol in skin care causes allergic skin reactions (contact dermatitis).

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Healthline — a publisher: health information publisher; part of RVO Health, backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group's Optum
      How we know who this is
      • “Healthline is a digital publisher and does not offer personal health or medical advice.” (their page)
      • “Healthline is part of RVO Health, a company backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group’s Optum.” (their page)
  5. Propylene glycol is a humectant that moisturizes and hydrates the skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Healthline — a publisher: health information publisher; part of RVO Health, backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group's Optum
      How we know who this is
      • “Healthline is a digital publisher and does not offer personal health or medical advice.” (their page)
      • “Healthline is part of RVO Health, a company backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group’s Optum.” (their page)

2 of 16

“Water?”Here!

SolventMineral

Why it’s here: Serves as the solvent base that dissolves or disperses other ingredients, forming the foundation of most creams, lotions, shampoos, and gels.

Plain water, almost always the largest ingredient by weight in a formula and typically purified or deionized before use.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Present in nearly all rinse-off and leave-on products; its listing high on an ingredient list simply reflects that it makes up most of the product's weight, not a formulation choice worth scrutinizing.

3 of 16

“UREA?”Here!

HumectantExfoliantSynthetic

Why it’s here: At low concentrations it draws water into the outer skin layer as a humectant. At higher concentrations, generally above 10 percent, it also loosens the bonds between dead skin cells, giving it a mild exfoliating or keratolytic effect used in treatments for very dry, rough, or thickened skin.

A small organic molecule that is a natural component of human skin, part of what's called the skin's 'natural moisturizing factor.' Cosmetic-grade urea is manufactured synthetically rather than sourced from urine, despite the ingredient's old reputation.

What the evidence says

The CIR safety panel reviewed urea used in cosmetics at concentrations of 0.01% to 10% and concluded it is safe as used, based on absorption, toxicity, genotoxicity, reproductive, and carcinogenicity data. Some irritation was reported in a few studies at higher concentrations (20% and above) and burning sensations were noted mainly in treatment of already-diseased skin rather than typical cosmetic use, but the panel found no genotoxic or carcinogenic concern at use levels. The report also notes urea can increase skin penetration of other applied chemicals, which formulators are advised to consider.

Context

Effect and irritation potential are dose-dependent: a 2-5% concentration in a daily lotion behaves very differently from a 20-40% concentration in a targeted foot cream or callus treatment. Leave-on use is the relevant context here since urea's job is ongoing hydration or exfoliation.

4 of 16

“Sodium Stearate?”Here!

SurfactantEmulsifierThickenerVaries by source

Why it’s here: It functions as an emulsifier and thickener, helping bind water and oil phases together and giving creams and bar products their structure and firmness.

The sodium salt of stearic acid, a fatty acid found in many plant and animal fats. It is a waxy solid and is, chemically, a basic soap.

What the evidence says

The CIR safety panel reviewed Sodium Stearate as used in cosmetics and concluded it is safe in current practices of use and concentration when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Animal and human skin tests found Sodium Stearate to be non-irritating or only mildly so at use concentrations (100% in rabbits; low-concentration aqueous solutions and a 7% stick deodorant showed minimal to moderate erythema in a minority of subjects, described as low potential for irritation). Dermal absorption through rat and human skin was noted, but no systemic toxicity, genotoxicity, or carcinogenicity concerns specific to Sodium Stearate were reported at cosmetic exposure levels.

Context

Found in both rinse-off products like bar soaps and leave-on creams and lotions, where its role is purely structural rather than active.

5 of 16

“Glycerin?”Here!glycerin, glycerol

HumectantConditioning agentVaries by source

Why it’s here: A humectant — it pulls water from the air and from deeper skin layers to the surface, helping products feel less drying and skin feel softer. It also helps stabilize emulsions and can improve the texture of soaps and lotions.

A small, simple molecule with three water-loving arms, produced by splitting fats and oils (plant or animal) or made synthetically. It has been a staple of skincare and soap for over a century.

What the evidence says

One of the most studied humectants in cosmetics. CIR has reviewed it as safe for use in cosmetic products. Occasional reports of mild irritation or a sticky feel exist at high concentrations, but no established safety concern at typical use levels.

Context

Works in both rinse-off and leave-on products. At very high concentrations in low-humidity conditions it can theoretically pull water out of skin rather than in, but this is not how it behaves at the levels used in commercial formulas.

Rumors

  1. Glycerin pulls water out of the skin in dry air, leaving it drier than before.

    Does not support — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    A claim about humectants in low humidity as a group, not this substance alone.

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Bareskinnaturals — a brand: sells natural skincare products and skincare-making courses
      How we know who this is
      • “Bareskinnaturals was born out of a passionate desire to promote the use of natural and organic skin care products and to teach others how to do so, having personally experienced the amazingly profound benefits in using plants and plant extracts and other naturally derived ingredients in taking care of my skin and that of my family.” (their page)
      • “The aim of Bareskinnaturals is to bring you the Very Best Natural and Organic skin care classes using the most effective teaching/learning techniques where learning goes hand in glove with teaching, as well as the most effective and highly potent natural ingredients, to kindle and ignite your passion for making natural skin care products, and transform you from being a novice to becoming a pro in making natural skincare products.” (their page)
Also in 8 other products →

6 of 16

“Glyceryl Laurate?”Here!

EmollientEmulsifierPlant

Why it’s here: It helps blend oil and water phases together, improves texture, and has some mild preservative-boosting properties because lauric acid derivatives have antimicrobial activity.

An ester formed from glycerin and lauric acid, a fatty acid common in coconut and palm kernel oil. It is a mild, naturally derived emulsifier.

What the evidence says

The CIR safety panel found glyceryl laurate safe as used in cosmetics, noting it is generally not irritating at concentrations found in cosmetic products. Moderate erythema was seen in repeat-insult patch tests only at concentrations higher than those used in cosmetics, and the panel's overall safety finding covers glyceryl laurate specifically (excluding only glyceryl arachidonate). The report also notes strong hemolytic activity in an in vitro sheep erythrocyte assay, a laboratory finding not tied to a specific topical-use risk.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on formulas, generally at low concentrations as a co-emulsifier or texture aid rather than a primary active.

7 of 16

“Magnesium Aluminum Silicate?”Here!purified clay (aluminium magnesium silicate)

OtherThickenerMineral

Why it’s here: Formulators use it to thicken lotions and creams, keep other ingredients like pigments or oils suspended evenly instead of settling, and give a product body without feeling greasy. It shows up often in mineral makeup and some clay-based masks.

A naturally occurring clay mineral, mined and purified, made of magnesium, aluminum, silicon, and oxygen arranged in fine plate-like particles. In water it swells into a smooth gel.

What the evidence says

The CIR safety assessment reports Magnesium Aluminum Silicate was a weak primary skin irritant in rabbits with no cumulative irritation in guinea pigs, caused only minimal eye irritation in a Draize test, showed no teratogenic or adverse fetal effects in mice, and produced no adverse effects when applied topically to human skin daily for one week. Inhalation toxicity and pneumoconiosis findings in the same document relate to occupational dust exposure during mining and processing, not to cosmetic use. Based on these cosmetic-relevant findings, the CIR Expert Panel concluded the ingredient is safe as used in cosmetic formulations.

Context

Used at low percentages, mainly in rinse-off and leave-on lotions and masks. It is not absorbed through skin in any meaningful way and is considered inert from a toxicological standpoint at cosmetic levels.

8 of 16

“Cetyl Alcohol?”Here!

EmollientThickenerEmulsifierVaries by source

Why it’s here: Formulators use it to thicken lotions and creams, stabilize emulsions so oil and water stay mixed, and give a product a smoother, less greasy feel on skin. It is a workhorse texture ingredient in a huge range of moisturizers and conditioners.

A waxy, white solid made of long fatty-alcohol chains, most often derived from coconut or palm oil (or made synthetically from petroleum feedstocks). Despite the name, it has none of the drying, antiseptic qualities of drinking alcohol — it behaves more like a soft wax.

What the evidence says

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has assessed cetyl alcohol as safe for use in cosmetics. It is a very low-level irritant and only rarely causes contact allergy, mostly in people with already-compromised skin who are exposed to many products.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products at concentrations typically well under 10%. Its safety profile does not meaningfully change with exposure route because it is not readily absorbed and is not reactive on skin.

9 of 16

“PHENOXYETHANOL?”Here!

PreservativeSynthetic

Why it’s here: Prevents the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold in water-containing formulas, extending shelf life and protecting the product and the user from contamination.

An ether alcohol used widely as a preservative, occurring in trace amounts in nature (green tea, for instance) but produced synthetically for cosmetic use.

What the evidence says

The SCCS and CIR consider phenoxyethanol safe at concentrations up to 1 percent, the limit set in the EU and widely followed elsewhere. Concerns raised in some consumer discourse about infant exposure stemmed from a 2008 French health agency caution for products used on the diaper area of infants; subsequent reviews, including by the SCCS, reaffirmed the 1 percent limit as safe across ages.

Context

The 1 percent concentration cap is the key context: safety assessments are tied to that limit, and it applies in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

10 of 16

“Mentha Piperita Oil?”Here!peppermint oil

OtherFragrancePlant

Why it’s here: It contributes a fresh scent and a tingling, cooling feel to products like lip balms, foot creams, scalp treatments, and toothpaste. That cooling effect is a real sensory cue many formulas are built around.

An essential oil steam-distilled from the leaves of the peppermint plant. Its main active component is menthol, the compound responsible for the cooling sensation.

What the evidence says

Cosmetic safety panels (CIR, 2001 and 2023) concluded peppermint oil is safe in cosmetics at current use concentrations (up to 3% rinse-off, 0.2% leave-on) provided products are formulated to be non-sensitizing, and animal studies found it was not a sensitizer at 8% in a maximization protocol. However, a large patch-test registry study found a 0.6% allergic reaction rate among 28,128 patients tested with 2% peppermint oil, with reactions most often linked to oral hygiene products, lip products, and foods, and nearly a third of reactions rated strong or extreme. This indicates a real but low-frequency contact sensitization risk at normal cosmetic exposure, rather than a settled absence of concern.

Context

Effects are concentration dependent: trace amounts for scent in a rinse-off shampoo pose little concern, while higher concentrations in a leave-on lip or skin product are more likely to cause tingling, redness, or irritation in sensitive users. Not generally recommended for use near the eyes or on infants.

11 of 16

“Allantoin?”Here!

Conditioning agentOtherVaries by source

Why it’s here: Formulators add it to soothe irritation, support the skin's barrier, and help with mild exfoliation by softening the outer layer of skin cells. It is common in products aimed at sensitive or compromised skin.

A compound found naturally in comfrey root and also made synthetically for cosmetic use. It is a small, water-soluble molecule known for calming and softening effects on skin.

What the evidence says

The CIR Expert Panel's safety assessment concluded that available test data were sufficient to support the safety of allantoin and its related complexes at the concentrations used in cosmetics, with allantoin itself used up to 2% in over 1,300 products. The abstract does not describe specific adverse findings or mechanisms of concern. It notes data gaps for two minor allantoin complexes (galacturonic acid and polygalacturonic acid), but these do not apply to allantoin itself.

Context

Used across rinse-off and leave-on products alike, generally at low concentrations (0.1–2%) where its main role is calming rather than active treatment.

12 of 16

“Ethylhexylglycerin?”Here!

OtherConditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: It boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, allowing formulators to use lower amounts of them, and it also softens skin feel and can reduce the sharpness of some preservative systems' scent.

A synthetic compound derived from glycerin, commonly used alongside preservatives rather than as one on its own.

What the evidence says

A large North American patch-test study found that ethylhexylglycerin caused allergic patch-test reactions in only 0.25% of tested patients, a rate the authors describe as similar to other low-allergenic preservatives like parabens and phenoxyethanol. When reactions did occur, they were most often linked to personal care products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams, and were judged clinically relevant in about 80% of positive cases. This is a single retrospective patch-test dataset without dose-response or long-term outcome data, and it indicates a rare but real contact-allergy potential rather than a common or well-established risk.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products, almost always at concentrations under 1%, paired with a primary preservative rather than replacing one.

Rumors

  1. Ethylhexylglycerin is a contact allergen that causes dermatitis and skin irritation, so it should be avoided in skin care.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Million Marker — a brand: sells mail-in chemical exposure testing and product recommendations
      How we know who this is
      • “Million Marker is a company dedicated to helping people understand and reduce their exposure to toxic chemicals through mail-in testing, education, and approved product recommendations.” (their page)
  2. Ethylhexylglycerin relieves itching and helps treat eczema and dry skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Puracy — a brand: sells plant-based cleaning and personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Our founder Sean Busch started Puracy with a single goal: to make effective, plant-based cleaning and personal care products that were gentle enough to use around his growing family.” (their page)
  3. Ethylhexylglycerin fights body odor by inhibiting odor-causing bacteria.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Beia — a brand: sells clean body care products for sweat, odor and body blemishes
      How we know who this is
      • “Beia is clean, functional body care for targeted needs, designed so you never have to compromise how you feel, no matter how busy your day gets.” (their page)
      • “We create solution-based products targeted for the concerns women actually deal with like: sweat, odor, and body blemishes.” (their page)
  4. Ethylhexylglycerin moisturizes skin by acting as a humectant that holds in moisture.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Puracy — a brand: sells plant-based cleaning and personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Our founder Sean Busch started Puracy with a single goal: to make effective, plant-based cleaning and personal care products that were gentle enough to use around his growing family.” (their page)
  5. Ethylhexylglycerin irritates the skin and eyes.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Derm Review — a publisher: skincare review site affiliated with Formulyst and Carrot & Stick, whose products it reviews and ranks
      How we know who this is
      • “The Derm Review launched in 2013 as a comprehensive resource on skincare products, cosmetic ingredients and beauty how to’s.” (their page)
      • “THIS SITE IS AFFILIATED WITH FORMULYST AND CARROT & STICK, WHOSE PRODUCTS ARE AMONG THOSE WE REVIEW AND RANK.” (their page)
Also in 3 other products →

13 of 16

“Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil?”Here!lavender essential oil

FragrancePlant

Why it’s here: It contributes fragrance and is popular in handmade and natural-leaning products for its scent profile and traditional association with calm.

An essential oil steam-distilled from lavender flowers, composed of a complex mix of volatile aromatic compounds, including linalool and linalyl acetate.

What the evidence says

Lavender oil is a recognized contact allergen for a subset of users, particularly as it ages and oxidizes, and the SCCS has flagged fragrance allergens including its component linalool for labeling requirements. It is not considered broadly hazardous at cosmetic concentrations, but sensitization risk is real and dose-dependent.

Context

Relevant mainly in leave-on products, where prolonged skin contact increases the chance of sensitization in susceptible individuals; rinse-off exposure is lower risk. Fresh, well-stored oil carries lower allergenic potential than oxidized oil.

14 of 16

“Magnesium Sulfate?”Here!Epsom salt

OtherThickenerMineral

Why it’s here: In formulations it works as a thickener in certain surfactant systems and can help stabilize emulsions. It is also included in bath products for the soak itself, where magnesium absorption through skin is a separate, debated question from its cosmetic role.

A naturally occurring mineral salt made of magnesium, sulfur, and oxygen, the same compound sold as Epsom salt for baths.

What the evidence says

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel assessed magnesium sulfate used as a bulking agent at concentrations up to 11% in leave-on and 25% in rinse-off products and concluded it is safe in current cosmetic use. Supporting data cited include a negative mouse skin irritation study and a negative in vitro sensitization assay at 50% concentration, plus clinical patch-test experience showing no sensitization potential from magnesium salts. The assessment is a single expert panel review of available data rather than new large-scale human trials, but it directly addresses the concentrations and exposure route (leave-on and rinse-off cosmetic use) relevant to consumers.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products, typically at modest concentrations where it functions as a texture modifier rather than an active ingredient.

15 of 16

“Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter?”Here!cocoa butter

EmollientFragranceConditioning agentOtherPlant

Why it’s here: It is a rich emollient that softens and smooths skin, lends body to balms and lotion bars, and helps stabilize other oils and waxes in a formula. Its pleasant chocolate-like scent is also a natural selling point.

The fat pressed from roasted cocoa beans, solid at room temperature but melting close to body heat. It is the same fat used in chocolate, just without the sugar and cocoa solids left in.

What the evidence says

A small study applied cocoa butter under occlusive patches to the upper back of 6 participants and used reflectance confocal microscopy to count microcomedones, finding a statistically significant increase in microcomedone number and diameter compared to untreated skin over 2-4 weeks. This is a surrogate marker (microcomedone counts) rather than a clinical acne outcome, the sample size is very small, and patch occlusion is not representative of typical leave-on cosmetic use. Two larger randomized trials testing cocoa butter lotion/cream for stretch mark prevention in pregnant women did not report any adverse skin effects, but they were not designed to assess comedogenicity.

Context

Used mainly in leave-on products like balms, body butters, and lip products, where its richness is the whole point. Concentration is typically high since it is often a primary base ingredient rather than a minor additive.

16 of 16

“Tocopheryl Acetate?”Here!vitamin E (as the acetate ester)

AntioxidantConditioning agentVaries by source

Why it’s here: It is added as an antioxidant to help protect oils in a formula from going rancid, and is marketed for its conditioning feel on skin and hair.

A more stable, ester form of vitamin E, made by attaching an acetate group to tocopherol so it resists breaking down as quickly when exposed to air and light.

What the evidence says

The CIR safety assessment reviewed animal and human data on Tocopheryl Acetate at the concentrations used in cosmetics (up to 36% in formulations) and found it was generally not irritating or sensitizing to skin, with reproductive and developmental toxicity tests negative, and clinical studies showed it was not an irritant or sensitizer. One animal test did show sensitization and one photocarcinogenesis study showed non-dose-related enhancement, but the panel concluded the overall data supported safety as used in cosmetic formulations. The assessment is a 2002 industry-sponsored ingredient review rather than independent long-term human outcome data.

Context

Common in leave-on products such as moisturizers and serums, typically at low percentages where it functions mainly as a preservative for the oils rather than a treatment ingredient.

Rumors

  1. Tocopheryl acetate irritates skin and causes redness, rashes and allergic contact dermatitis.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: post-surgical wound/scar patients applying vitamin E ointment to healing skin.

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Annmarie Skin Care — a brand: sells handcrafted organic skin care
      How we know who this is
      • “Step 1: Curate At Annmarie Skin Care, we curate with organic and wildcrafted ingredients—from herbs to high-vibration plant extracts—that meet the highest standards of quality and effectiveness for your skin and body.” (their page)
      • “Take this 2-minute assessment for a personalized Annmarie Skin Care regimen for next-level results.” (their page)
  2. Tocopheryl acetate promotes skin healing and reduces the appearance of scars and blemishes.

    Does not support — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: patients who underwent skin cancer removal surgery (post-surgical scars).

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Biotulin — a brand: sells pro-age skincare
      How we know who this is
      • “Developed through advanced German skincare research, the Biotulin Effect is a pro-age formulation approach designed to deliver visible results and progressively improve skin quality with consistent use.” (their page)
      • “Start Your Pro-Age Skincare System with Biotulin's Bestselling Pro-Age Smoothing Serum Concentrate” (their page)
  3. Tocopheryl acetate is an antioxidant that protects skin from free radical damage.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Lotioncrafter — a retailer: sells cosmetic ingredients
      How we know who this is
      • “Lotioncrafter - Premium Ingredients at Less Than Premium Prices” (their page)
  4. Tocopheryl acetate can be contaminated with hydroquinone, which may cause cancer.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Annmarie Skin Care — a brand: sells handcrafted organic skin care
      How we know who this is
      • “Step 1: Curate At Annmarie Skin Care, we curate with organic and wildcrafted ingredients—from herbs to high-vibration plant extracts—that meet the highest standards of quality and effectiveness for your skin and body.” (their page)
      • “Take this 2-minute assessment for a personalized Annmarie Skin Care regimen for next-level results.” (their page)

Educational information, not medical or safety advice. Consult a professional for allergies or medical concerns.