Roll Call

Dr.Melaxin CYANO PINK SPICULE SERUM

30 ingredients.

The roll

1 of 30

“Water?”Here!

SolventMineral

Why it’s here: Serves as the solvent base that dissolves or disperses other ingredients, forming the foundation of most creams, lotions, shampoos, and gels.

Plain water, almost always the largest ingredient by weight in a formula and typically purified or deionized before use.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Present in nearly all rinse-off and leave-on products; its listing high on an ingredient list simply reflects that it makes up most of the product's weight, not a formulation choice worth scrutinizing.

2 of 30

“Glycerin?”Here!glycerin, glycerol

HumectantConditioning agentVaries by source

Why it’s here: A humectant — it pulls water from the air and from deeper skin layers to the surface, helping products feel less drying and skin feel softer. It also helps stabilize emulsions and can improve the texture of soaps and lotions.

A small, simple molecule with three water-loving arms, produced by splitting fats and oils (plant or animal) or made synthetically. It has been a staple of skincare and soap for over a century.

What the evidence says

One of the most studied humectants in cosmetics. CIR has reviewed it as safe for use in cosmetic products. Occasional reports of mild irritation or a sticky feel exist at high concentrations, but no established safety concern at typical use levels.

Context

Works in both rinse-off and leave-on products. At very high concentrations in low-humidity conditions it can theoretically pull water out of skin rather than in, but this is not how it behaves at the levels used in commercial formulas.

Rumors

  1. Glycerin pulls water out of the skin in dry air, leaving it drier than before.

    Does not support — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    A claim about humectants in low humidity as a group, not this substance alone.

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Bareskinnaturals — a brand: sells natural skincare products and skincare-making courses
      How we know who this is
      • “Bareskinnaturals was born out of a passionate desire to promote the use of natural and organic skin care products and to teach others how to do so, having personally experienced the amazingly profound benefits in using plants and plant extracts and other naturally derived ingredients in taking care of my skin and that of my family.” (their page)
      • “The aim of Bareskinnaturals is to bring you the Very Best Natural and Organic skin care classes using the most effective teaching/learning techniques where learning goes hand in glove with teaching, as well as the most effective and highly potent natural ingredients, to kindle and ignite your passion for making natural skin care products, and transform you from being a novice to becoming a pro in making natural skincare products.” (their page)
Also in 8 other products →

3 of 30

“Butylene Glycol?”Here!

HumectantFragranceConditioning agentSolventThickenerSynthetic

Why it’s here: Draws in moisture, helps dissolve other ingredients, and gives formulas a lighter, less sticky feel than some other humectants.

A small synthetic molecule from the alcohol family, used as a clear, colorless liquid.

What the evidence says

The only cited study is a retrospective patch-testing review of 893 dermatology clinic patients already undergoing allergy evaluation, not a sample of general cosmetic users. It found 1.46% of these patients reacted to butylene glycol on patch testing, with a notable cross-reactivity to propylene glycol in BG-allergic patients. This shows contact allergy to butylene glycol can occur in individuals prone to allergic contact dermatitis, but it does not quantify risk at typical cosmetic-use concentrations or in the general population, and no rinse-off versus leave-on distinction is made.

Context

CIR review covers use across both rinse-off and leave-on product types.

Rumors

  1. Butylene glycol clogs pores and causes breakouts, blackheads and whiteheads in acne-prone skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  2. Butylene glycol carries harmful chemicals deeper into the skin and into the body.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sohma Naturals — a brand: sells its own natural and organic skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Sohma Naturals is a mother and daughter team of healthcare professionals, with over 60 years of research and experience between them.” (their page)
      • “They've spent over 5 years researching and testing the purest raw materials for their exclusive skincare formulations, using selectively sourced ingredients to produce natural and mostly organic products that are of the highest quality and purest form.” (their page)
  3. Butylene glycol causes skin irritation and allergic reactions, especially in sensitive skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sohma Naturals — a brand: sells its own natural and organic skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Sohma Naturals is a mother and daughter team of healthcare professionals, with over 60 years of research and experience between them.” (their page)
      • “They've spent over 5 years researching and testing the purest raw materials for their exclusive skincare formulations, using selectively sourced ingredients to produce natural and mostly organic products that are of the highest quality and purest form.” (their page)
  4. Butylene glycol hydrates skin and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Sciencetimes.com — a publisher: science news and reference content
      How we know who this is
      • “Sciencetimes.com prides itself in providing a complete informational and content package for science enthusiasts in the web who aim to remain updated and well-informed regarding a wide array of topics of their interest.” (their page)
      • “We are a source for original and timely science and research information as well as breaking news in the various fields we represent.” (their page)
  5. Butylene glycol causes systemic organ toxicity, contact dermatitis and hives even at low concentrations.

    Does not supporthealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: single case report of a 28-year-old woman with cosmetic contact dermatitis.

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Dubois Beauty — a brand: sells its own clean skincare line
      How we know who this is
      • “Dubois Beauty was created by esthetician, spa owner, and wellness expert Denise Dubois.” (their page)
      • “So she created a line of clean and simple skincare to make our busy lives a little easier.” (their page)
Also in 2 other products →

4 of 30

“Niacinamide?”Here!vitamin B3

Conditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: Used for its effects on skin appearance and barrier function; formulators include it to help with the look of skin tone, texture, and moisture retention.

A form of vitamin B3 (niacin) that is water-soluble and commonly formulated into serums, moisturizers, and treatment products.

What the evidence says

Niacinamide has a substantial body of published research, including clinical trials, supporting benefits for skin barrier function and appearance at typical cosmetic concentrations (around 2-5%). CIR has reviewed it as safe for use in cosmetics.

Context

Most studied in leave-on products at concentrations in the low single-digit percentages; effects described in the literature are tied to that range.

5 of 30

“12-Hexanediol?”Here!

SolventHumectantPreservativeSynthetic

Why it’s here: Works as a solvent and humectant, and is also valued by formulators for its ability to help boost the effectiveness of a product's preservative system, sometimes allowing lower levels of traditional preservatives.

A synthetic diol (a molecule with two alcohol groups), closely related to the more commonly listed 1,2-Hexanediol, used as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

6 of 30

“Cetyl Ethylhexanoate?”Here!cetyl octanoate

EmollientSynthetic

Why it’s here: Functions as an emollient, giving products a smooth, silky slip and helping other ingredients spread evenly across skin or hair without feeling heavy.

An ester formed from cetyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol, and ethylhexanoic acid. It is a light, non-greasy oil-like liquid used widely in skin and hair products.

What the evidence says

The CIR Expert Panel reviewed animal and clinical data for cetyl ethylhexanoate and related alkyl ethylhexanoates, including at concentrations as high as 77.3% in rinse-off products and 52% in leave-on lipstick, and concluded the ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics when formulated to be nonirritating. The assessment relies partly on extrapolation from data on structurally related constituent alcohols rather than ingredient-specific testing for every use. No adverse findings are described in the available abstract text.

Rumors

  1. Cetyl ethylhexanoate softens and soothes the skin.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Derm Review — a publisher: skincare review site affiliated with Formulyst and Carrot & Stick, whose products it reviews and ranks
      How we know who this is
      • “The Derm Review launched in 2013 as a comprehensive resource on skincare products, cosmetic ingredients and beauty how to’s.” (their page)
      • “THIS SITE IS AFFILIATED WITH FORMULYST AND CARROT & STICK, WHOSE PRODUCTS ARE AMONG THOSE WE REVIEW AND RANK.” (their page)
  2. Cetyl ethylhexanoate helps skin retain moisture.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  3. Cetyl ethylhexanoate improves skin dryness and flaking.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Derm Review — a publisher: skincare review site affiliated with Formulyst and Carrot & Stick, whose products it reviews and ranks
      How we know who this is
      • “The Derm Review launched in 2013 as a comprehensive resource on skincare products, cosmetic ingredients and beauty how to’s.” (their page)
      • “THIS SITE IS AFFILIATED WITH FORMULYST AND CARROT & STICK, WHOSE PRODUCTS ARE AMONG THOSE WE REVIEW AND RANK.” (their page)
  4. Cetyl ethylhexanoate promotes fungal acne by feeding Malassezia yeast.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • sezia.com — we couldn’t open the site to see who runs it
  5. Cetyl ethylhexanoate makes hair easier to detangle and adds shine.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Derm Review — a publisher: skincare review site affiliated with Formulyst and Carrot & Stick, whose products it reviews and ranks
      How we know who this is
      • “The Derm Review launched in 2013 as a comprehensive resource on skincare products, cosmetic ingredients and beauty how to’s.” (their page)
      • “THIS SITE IS AFFILIATED WITH FORMULYST AND CARROT & STICK, WHOSE PRODUCTS ARE AMONG THOSE WE REVIEW AND RANK.” (their page)
Also in 1 other product →

7 of 30

“Carbomer?”Here!

EmulsifierThickenerSynthetic

Why it’s here: It thickens liquids, stabilizes emulsions, and gives gels their characteristic smooth, non-greasy texture.

A synthetic polymer made from acrylic acid, used in powder or liquid form that swells into a clear gel when mixed with water and neutralized.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

8 of 30

“Cetearyl Olivate?”Here!olive-derived emulsifying wax

Conditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: It helps oil and water mix into a stable lotion or cream without needing traditional synthetic emulsifiers, and it leaves a soft, non-greasy feel on skin. Formulators also like it because it is derived from a single plant source and is biodegradable.

A wax-like substance made by combining fatty alcohols from olive oil (cetearyl alcohol) with olive oil fatty acids, through a process called esterification. It is usually paired with Sorbitan Olivate in a commercial blend sold under names like Olivem 1000.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

9 of 30

“Hydroxyacetophenone?”Here!

AntioxidantSynthetic

Why it’s here: It helps preserve formulas and is often included alongside other preservative systems to boost their effectiveness; it also has mild antioxidant and deodorizing properties.

A synthetic compound related to acetophenone, used in small amounts in cosmetic formulas. It is not a fragrance in the perfume sense, though it has a faint odor of its own.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

CIR's safety conclusion applies to the concentrations used in cosmetic products as surveyed by the industry at the time of review.

Rumors

  1. Hydroxyacetophenone can cause skin irritation and allergic contact dermatitis.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • glooshi.com — we couldn’t open the site to see who runs it
  2. Hydroxyacetophenone acts as an antimicrobial that lets products skip conventional preservatives.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  3. Hydroxyacetophenone is an antioxidant that protects skin cells from oxidative stress.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • aloderma.com — we haven’t checked who runs this site yet
  4. Hydroxyacetophenone is estrogenic (acts like a hormone disruptor).

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Bubble & Bee Organic — a brand: makes and sells certified organic personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “In 2007 Bubble & Bee Organic was born.” (their page)
      • “Certified organic since 2009, we blend, bottle and ship to you directly from our facility in Bountiful Utah.” (their page)
  5. Hydroxyacetophenone soothes skin, reducing redness, sensitivity and irritation.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

Also in 1 other product →

10 of 30

“Propanediol?”Here!

SolventThickenerVaries by source

Why it’s here: Used as a humectant and solvent, helping products draw and hold moisture and helping dissolve other ingredients like fragrance and preservatives.

A small organic molecule, often plant-derived from corn sugar fermentation, that is a clear, odorless liquid.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Propanediol increases penetration of harmful ingredients into the skin.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • draxe.com — we couldn’t open the site to see who runs it
  2. Propanediol helps skin absorb the other ingredients in a product, making them more effective.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Healthline — a publisher: health information publisher; part of RVO Health, backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group's Optum
      How we know who this is
      • “Healthline is a digital publisher and does not offer personal health or medical advice.” (their page)
      • “Healthline is part of RVO Health, a company backed by Red Ventures and UnitedHealth Group’s Optum.” (their page)
  3. Propanediol is good for acne-prone and oily skin because it removes excess oil and prevents clogged pores.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  4. Propanediol moisturizes and hydrates the skin, reducing water loss.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
  5. Propanediol can cause skin irritation or allergic reactions.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • StyleCraze — a publisher: beauty and wellness content funded by ads, affiliate programs and sponsored content
      How we know who this is
      • “StyleCraze was founded in 2011 to serve as a one-stop destination for advice on beauty, health and wellness, and lifestyle.” (their page)
      • “To help us maintain the resources needed to achieve this goal, we receive funding through advertisements, affiliate programs, and sponsored content.” (their page)
Also in 2 other products →

11 of 30

“Sorbitan Olivate?”Here!

EmulsifierPlant

Why it’s here: Helps blend oil and water phases together in lotions and creams, and is often chosen by formulators as a plant-derived alternative to more synthetic emulsifiers.

An emulsifier made by combining sorbitol with fatty acids derived from olive oil.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

12 of 30

“Tromethamine?”Here!Tris

pH adjusterFragranceSynthetic

Why it’s here: Adjusts and stabilizes the pH of a product, keeping it within a range that is comfortable for skin and stable for the formula's other ingredients.

A synthetic organic compound widely used as a buffering agent in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulas.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Cosmetic Ingredient Review assessment covers its use as a pH adjuster at the low concentrations typical of cosmetic formulas.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

13 of 30

“Ethylhexylglycerin?”Here!

OtherConditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: It boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, allowing formulators to use lower amounts of them, and it also softens skin feel and can reduce the sharpness of some preservative systems' scent.

A synthetic compound derived from glycerin, commonly used alongside preservatives rather than as one on its own.

What the evidence says

A large North American patch-test study found that ethylhexylglycerin caused allergic patch-test reactions in only 0.25% of tested patients, a rate the authors describe as similar to other low-allergenic preservatives like parabens and phenoxyethanol. When reactions did occur, they were most often linked to personal care products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams, and were judged clinically relevant in about 80% of positive cases. This is a single retrospective patch-test dataset without dose-response or long-term outcome data, and it indicates a rare but real contact-allergy potential rather than a common or well-established risk.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products, almost always at concentrations under 1%, paired with a primary preservative rather than replacing one.

Rumors

  1. Ethylhexylglycerin is a contact allergen that causes dermatitis and skin irritation, so it should be avoided in skin care.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Million Marker — a brand: sells mail-in chemical exposure testing and product recommendations
      How we know who this is
      • “Million Marker is a company dedicated to helping people understand and reduce their exposure to toxic chemicals through mail-in testing, education, and approved product recommendations.” (their page)
  2. Ethylhexylglycerin relieves itching and helps treat eczema and dry skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Puracy — a brand: sells plant-based cleaning and personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Our founder Sean Busch started Puracy with a single goal: to make effective, plant-based cleaning and personal care products that were gentle enough to use around his growing family.” (their page)
  3. Ethylhexylglycerin fights body odor by inhibiting odor-causing bacteria.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Beia — a brand: sells clean body care products for sweat, odor and body blemishes
      How we know who this is
      • “Beia is clean, functional body care for targeted needs, designed so you never have to compromise how you feel, no matter how busy your day gets.” (their page)
      • “We create solution-based products targeted for the concerns women actually deal with like: sweat, odor, and body blemishes.” (their page)
  4. Ethylhexylglycerin moisturizes skin by acting as a humectant that holds in moisture.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Puracy — a brand: sells plant-based cleaning and personal care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Our founder Sean Busch started Puracy with a single goal: to make effective, plant-based cleaning and personal care products that were gentle enough to use around his growing family.” (their page)
  5. Ethylhexylglycerin irritates the skin and eyes.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • The Derm Review — a publisher: skincare review site affiliated with Formulyst and Carrot & Stick, whose products it reviews and ranks
      How we know who this is
      • “The Derm Review launched in 2013 as a comprehensive resource on skincare products, cosmetic ingredients and beauty how to’s.” (their page)
      • “THIS SITE IS AFFILIATED WITH FORMULYST AND CARROT & STICK, WHOSE PRODUCTS ARE AMONG THOSE WE REVIEW AND RANK.” (their page)
Also in 3 other products →

14 of 30

“Hydrolyzed Sponge?”Here!hydrolyzed freshwater sponge protein

Conditioning agentAnimal-derived

Why it’s here: The hydrolyzed protein fraction is used as a skin-conditioning ingredient, while the structural material from sponge has occasionally been explored for gentle mechanical exfoliation in certain specialty products.

A protein material derived from sponge (commonly freshwater species such as Spongilla) that has been broken down, or hydrolyzed, into smaller peptide fragments. Some products also use the fine silica-based skeletal spicules from sponge tissue as a mild physical exfoliant.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

15 of 30

“Adenosine?”Here!

Conditioning agentBiotech

Why it’s here: Marketed as an anti-aging ingredient, included in formulas intended to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

A naturally occurring molecule found in every cell of the body, where it plays a role in energy transfer. The version used in cosmetics is produced synthetically or via fermentation.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Evaluations of adenosine for wrinkle improvement have generally used leave-on facial formulas at defined concentrations rather than rinse-off products.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

16 of 30

“Cyanocobalamin?”Here!vitamin B12

Conditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: It is included in topical formulas as a conditioning and antioxidant ingredient, often marketed for supporting skin or scalp health, drawing on vitamin B12's known biological roles even though topical absorption and effect are less established than oral use.

A synthetically produced form of vitamin B12, the same compound used in oral and injectable supplements to treat B12 deficiency. In cosmetics it appears as a red-tinted powder or solution incorporated into creams and hair products.

What the evidence says

Cyanocobalamin has a long history of safe use as an oral and injectable vitamin supplement. Its safety when applied topically in cosmetic concentrations has not raised concern in ingredient reviews, though direct evidence of a specific cosmetic benefit from topical application is limited.

17 of 30

“DISODIUM EDTA?”Here!

Chelating agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: Added in small amounts as a chelating agent — it grabs trace metal ions in the formula that could otherwise degrade fragrance, discolor the product, or reduce the effectiveness of preservatives.

The disodium salt of EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), a small synthetic molecule that binds tightly to metal ions.

What the evidence says

The CIR has reviewed EDTA salts and considers them safe at the low concentrations used in cosmetics. It is not well absorbed through intact skin, and its use in cosmetics is at levels far below those studied for other exposure routes.

Context

Used at very low percentages, usually well under 1 percent, in both rinse-off and leave-on products; its role is purely to stabilize the formula rather than to act on skin.

18 of 30

“Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer?”Here!

HumectantThickenerSynthetic

Why it’s here: Gives lotions, creams, and gels body and a smooth texture, and can help other ingredients stay evenly suspended in a formula.

A synthetic polymer made from glyceryl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers, used as a thickening and film-forming agent.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

19 of 30

“Hyaluronic acid?”Here!hyaluronan

HumectantConditioning agentVaries by source

Why it’s here: It is a humectant: it draws and holds water at the skin's surface, which is why it shows up in moisturizers and serums aiming for a plumped, hydrated look.

A naturally occurring large sugar molecule found throughout the human body, especially in skin and joint fluid, where it holds water and gives tissue its cushion. The cosmetic version is usually produced by bacterial fermentation rather than extracted from animals.

What the evidence says

The cited CIR safety assessment reviewed hyaluronic acid and its sodium/potassium salts as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 2% and found no toxicity, immunogenicity, sensitization, reproductive/developmental toxicity, or genotoxicity across a range of animal studies. It also notes widespread clinical use, primarily by injection, has been free of significant adverse reactions. The panel concluded these ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics as described. No concentration-dependent adverse effects at cosmetic use levels are reported in this document.

Context

In leave-on products it functions primarily as a surface humectant; effects depend on molecular weight and formulation.

Rumors

  1. Hyaluronic acid smooths fine lines and wrinkles.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • L'Oréal Paris — a brand: sells makeup, skin care, men's and hair products
      How we know who this is
      • “Makeup, Skin Care, Men & Hair products - L'Oréal Paris” (their page)
  2. Hyaluronic acid draws water out of your skin in dry climates, leaving skin drier.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Refinery29 — a publisher: lifestyle, fashion and beauty media; earns commission on linked products
      How we know who this is
      • “Refinery29 is a creative global platform for the curious and the culturally tapped in.” (their page)
      • “If you purchase any of these products, we may earn a commission.” (their page)
  3. Hyaluronic acid holds 1,000 times its weight in water, making it an excellent moisturizer for skin.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Dermalogica — a brand: sells professional-grade skin care products and services
      How we know who this is
      • “Under her leadership, Dermalogica has grown to be the leading professional skin care brand, used by more than 100,000 skin therapists in more than 100 countries around the world.” (their page)
      • “We offer professional-grade skin care education, products, and services to skin therapists and customers alike.” (their page)
  4. Hyaluronic acid causes breakouts, especially in sensitive or acne-prone skin.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  5. Hyaluronic acid in hair products hydrates hair and makes it shinier, fuller and less frizzy.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • L'Oréal Paris — a brand: sells makeup, skin care, men's and hair products
      How we know who this is
      • “Makeup, Skin Care, Men & Hair products - L'Oréal Paris” (their page)
Also in 1 other product →

20 of 30

“Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid?”Here!hyaluronic acid (small molecule)

Conditioning agentHumectantBiotech

Why it’s here: The smaller fragment size is marketed as allowing better penetration into the upper layers of skin than full-size hyaluronic acid, which sits mostly on the surface. It functions as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin.

Hyaluronic acid that has been broken down into smaller fragments through a hydrolysis process. Hyaluronic acid itself is a naturally occurring sugar found throughout the body, especially in skin and joints, where it holds onto water.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Relevant mainly to leave-on products where sustained hydration at the skin surface is the goal.

Rumors

  1. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid reduces wrinkles by plumping them from within.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  2. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid penetrates deeper into the skin than regular hyaluronic acid.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  3. Low-molecular-weight (hydrolyzed) hyaluronic acid is a pro-inflammatory signal molecule, which makes it a controversial skincare ingredient.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • INKEEDecoder — a platform — posts are by its users: ingredient checker; founder co-owns skincare brand Geek & Gorgeous and runs webshop Skinsmart.hu
      How we know who this is
      • “Encouraged by the success of Kremmania and by my passion for science based skincare, I started INKEEDecoder in 2015 to try to create the best science-based ingredient checker tool.” (their page)
      • “A skincare webshop in Hungary called Skinsmart.hu selling science-based skincare products from a few top brands and she is the co-owner and co-founder of a small Hungarian skincare brand called Geek & Gorgeous.” (their page)
  4. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid can trigger inflammation in sensitive or barrier-damaged skin by activating TLR4 receptors.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • melicor.it — we haven’t checked who runs this site yet
  5. Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid stimulates the skin to produce its own hyaluronic acid.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

Also in 1 other product →

21 of 30

“Sodium Hyaluronate?”Here!

HumectantConditioning agentBiotech

Why it’s here: It draws water to the skin's surface and holds onto it, giving a plumping, hydrating effect in serums, moisturizers, and some injectable fillers.

The sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring molecule found in human skin and connective tissue; the salt form is smaller and more stable for use in formulations.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Sodium hyaluronate plumps the skin and reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Jones Road — a brand: sells clean makeup and skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Jones Road was founded by makeup artist Bobbi Brown on the philosophy that the world doesn’t need more beauty products.” (their page)
      • “Jones Road is a growing collection of simple, smart products for all ages, skin types, and skin tones that help women achieve the no-makeup makeup look naturally- and an evolution of how good makeup can actually feel (as well as look).” (their page)
  2. Sodium hyaluronate holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Jones Road — a brand: sells clean makeup and skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Jones Road was founded by makeup artist Bobbi Brown on the philosophy that the world doesn’t need more beauty products.” (their page)
      • “Jones Road is a growing collection of simple, smart products for all ages, skin types, and skin tones that help women achieve the no-makeup makeup look naturally- and an evolution of how good makeup can actually feel (as well as look).” (their page)
  3. Sodium hyaluronate penetrates the skin more deeply than hyaluronic acid because it is a smaller molecule.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Jones Road — a brand: sells clean makeup and skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Jones Road was founded by makeup artist Bobbi Brown on the philosophy that the world doesn’t need more beauty products.” (their page)
      • “Jones Road is a growing collection of simple, smart products for all ages, skin types, and skin tones that help women achieve the no-makeup makeup look naturally- and an evolution of how good makeup can actually feel (as well as look).” (their page)
  4. Sodium hyaluronate is non-comedogenic and safe for all skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin.

    Supports — suggestivehealth and safety evidence

    Studied in: adults with mild to moderate facial rosacea; general cosmetic users for irritation/sensitization testing.

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • The INKEY List — a brand: sells its own skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Founded by Colette Laxton and Mark Curry in 2018, The INKEY List was born from a belief that better knowledge powers better decisions.” (their page)
      • “All of our own brand cosmetic and personal care products are approved under the Cruelty Free International Leaping Bunny programme, the internationally recognisable gold standard for cruelty free products.” (their page)
  5. Sodium hyaluronate draws moisture out of the skin and causes dryness when there is no moisture available at the surface.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Kaya Clinics — a brand: sells skin, hair and body clinic treatments and its own skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Kaya Clinics is India’s leading network of expert dermatologists, dedicated to skin, hair, and body care for more than 20 years.” (their page)
      • “Trust Kaya Skin Clinic to provide expert care and innovative solutions for all your skin, hair, and body concerns.” (their page)
Also in 1 other product →

22 of 30

“Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract?”Here!sweet almond fruit extract

Conditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Used as a skin conditioning ingredient, sometimes included for its antioxidant content.

An extract made from the fruit of the sweet almond tree, distinct from sweet almond oil, which comes from the seed (kernel).

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

23 of 30

“Tremella Fuciformis Extract?”Here!snow mushroom extract

HumectantConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: It is used in cosmetics mainly as a humectant, valued for its water-binding capacity, which some formulators compare to hyaluronic acid, giving skin a plumper, more hydrated feel in leave-on products.

An extract from Tremella fuciformis, a translucent, jelly-like edible mushroom traditionally used in East Asian cooking and medicine. The extract is rich in polysaccharides that can hold large amounts of water.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

24 of 30

“Sodium Glycerophosphate?”Here!

OtherSynthetic

Why it’s here: Functions as a pH buffer to help keep a formula's acidity stable, and is also included in some skin conditioning and hair care products for its mineral content.

A salt formed from glycerophosphoric acid and sodium, used as a mineral and buffering ingredient in cosmetic and oral care formulas.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Sodium glycerophosphate fights dental plaque.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Paula's Choice — a brand: sells its own skincare products
      How we know who this is
  2. Sodium glycerophosphate moisturizes the skin.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

25 of 30

“Potassium Magnesium Aspartate?”Here!

pH adjusterOtherSynthetic

Why it’s here: Included as a skin conditioning agent, sometimes meant to evoke the mineral content of thermal spring waters.

A mineral salt combining potassium, magnesium, and the amino acid aspartic acid, used in small amounts in skin and hair care formulas.

What the evidence says

This is a minor, lightly studied cosmetic ingredient. There is little published research specifically on its topical use, though its component minerals and amino acids are common and well-characterized substances.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

26 of 30

“Calcium Gluconate?”Here!calcium salt of gluconic acid

HumectantOtherConditioning agentMineral

Why it’s here: In cosmetics it functions mainly as a skin-conditioning agent and can also help buffer a formula's acidity or bind trace metals that would otherwise destabilize it.

A mineral salt formed from calcium and gluconic acid, a white crystalline powder that dissolves in water. It is widely known in medicine as an injectable treatment for low blood calcium and for hydrofluoric acid skin burns.

What the evidence says

Calcium gluconate has an extensive history of medical use, including direct skin application for chemical burns, with no notable record of irritation at the concentrations used there. Cosmetic use is at much lower levels and has not drawn specific safety review attention.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

27 of 30

“Magnesium Gluconate?”Here!magnesium salt of gluconic acid

Conditioning agentMineral

Why it’s here: In cosmetics it serves as a skin-conditioning agent and can help stabilize formulas by binding trace metal ions that might otherwise degrade other ingredients or cause discoloration.

A mineral salt formed by combining magnesium with gluconic acid, a compound derived from the oxidation of glucose. It is a white, water-soluble powder also used as a dietary magnesium supplement.

What the evidence says

Magnesium gluconate has a long history of use in oral supplements and has not been linked to safety concerns in topical cosmetic use. Published cosmetic ingredient safety reviews have not flagged it as a concern at the low levels typically used in formulations.

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

28 of 30

“Coffea Arabica Seed Extract?”Here!coffee bean extract

OtherConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Added to formulations primarily as an antioxidant, and sometimes for its conditioning properties or distinctive scent.

An extract derived from the seeds (beans) of the Coffea arabica plant, containing compounds such as chlorogenic acid and caffeine.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Coffea arabica seed extract has a slimming effect on skin because its caffeine breaks down fat cells, reducing cellulite.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  2. Coffea arabica seed extract is an antioxidant that fights skin aging and protects skin from pollution and UV damage.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Paula's Choice — a brand: sells its own skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Copyright © Paula's Choice GENERAL CONDITIONS PRIVACY POLICY COOKIE POLICY COOKIE SETTINGS” (their page)
      • “Our formulas do what they say, every single time.” (their page)
Also in 1 other product →

29 of 30

“Hydrolyzed Extensin?”Here!

Conditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Used as a skin and hair conditioning agent, intended to form a light film and improve the feel of a formula on the skin or hair.

A plant-derived protein. Extensin is a structural glycoprotein found in plant cell walls; the hydrolyzed form has been broken down into smaller fragments for use in cosmetic formulas.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Give us a moment — we’re looking into what people say about this. Check back shortly, or sign in and we’ll let you know.

30 of 30

“Collagen Extract?”Here!collagen

Conditioning agentAnimal-derived

Why it’s here: Used as a conditioning and film-forming ingredient on the skin's surface. It can help the skin feel smoother and temporarily plumper, and it holds some water, giving it mild humectant properties.

A protein extract, usually derived from animal connective tissue (commonly bovine, porcine, or marine sources), processed and purified for use in skincare formulas.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Rumors

  1. Collagen in shampoo strengthens hair, prevents breakage and repairs split ends.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  2. Collagen in skin creams does not rejuvenate skin because it cannot reach living skin cells.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  3. Collagen applied to the skin can cause allergic reactions such as redness and swelling.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

  4. Collagen in skin creams and serums firms and plumps skin and reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • L'Oréal Paris — a brand: sells makeup, skin care, men's and hair products
      How we know who this is
      • “Makeup, Skin Care, Men & Hair products - L'Oréal Paris” (their page)
  5. Topical collagen hydrates skin by forming a film that holds in water and protects against dehydration.

    We haven’t checked the evidence on this one yet.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

Educational information, not medical or safety advice. Consult a professional for allergies or medical concerns.