Roll Call

PRO-V BLENDS ROSE WATER SULFATE FREE CONDITIONER

16 ingredients.

The roll

1 of 16

“Water?”Here!

SolventMineral

Why it’s here: Serves as the solvent base that dissolves or disperses other ingredients, forming the foundation of most creams, lotions, shampoos, and gels.

Plain water, almost always the largest ingredient by weight in a formula and typically purified or deionized before use.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Present in nearly all rinse-off and leave-on products; its listing high on an ingredient list simply reflects that it makes up most of the product's weight, not a formulation choice worth scrutinizing.

2 of 16

“Stearyl Alcohol?”Here!

EmollientThickenerEmulsifierVaries by source

Why it’s here: It thickens formulas, helps stabilize emulsions, and contributes to the thick, rich feel of many creams and conditioners. It is frequently paired with cetyl alcohol because the two work well together to build texture.

Another fatty alcohol, closely related to cetyl alcohol but with a slightly longer carbon chain. It is typically derived from vegetable oils like palm or soy, or from animal tallow, then refined into a white waxy solid.

What the evidence says

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has found stearyl alcohol safe as used in cosmetics. Reports of irritation or allergy are uncommon and generally occur only in people with pre-existing skin conditions or very high, repeated exposure in medical contexts (e.g., wound dressings), not typical cosmetic use.

Context

Common in rinse-off conditioners and leave-on lotions alike, usually at low single-digit percentages. Its long history of use across product types has not turned up a concentration-dependent hazard at cosmetic levels.

3 of 16

“Behentrimonium Chloride?”Here!

Conditioning agentPreservativeSynthetic

Why it’s here: It is a conditioning agent, mainly for hair. Hair is negatively charged after washing, and this positively charged molecule clings to it, smoothing the surface, cutting static, and making wet hair easier to comb. It shows up in conditioners, detanglers, and some conditioning shampoos, and it also does double duty as a mild preservative-boosting antistatic agent.

A quaternary ammonium compound, meaning a positively charged molecule with a long fatty tail derived from behenic acid, a fat found in some plant oils. It is manufactured, not extracted whole from a plant.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Used at low percentages (typically under 5 percent) in leave-on and rinse-off hair products, well below levels associated with irritation. Not the same substance as the harsher quaternary disinfectants sometimes discussed in cleaning contexts.

4 of 16

“Cetyl Alcohol?”Here!

EmollientThickenerEmulsifierVaries by source

Why it’s here: Formulators use it to thicken lotions and creams, stabilize emulsions so oil and water stay mixed, and give a product a smoother, less greasy feel on skin. It is a workhorse texture ingredient in a huge range of moisturizers and conditioners.

A waxy, white solid made of long fatty-alcohol chains, most often derived from coconut or palm oil (or made synthetically from petroleum feedstocks). Despite the name, it has none of the drying, antiseptic qualities of drinking alcohol — it behaves more like a soft wax.

What the evidence says

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has assessed cetyl alcohol as safe for use in cosmetics. It is a very low-level irritant and only rarely causes contact allergy, mostly in people with already-compromised skin who are exposed to many products.

Context

Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products at concentrations typically well under 10%. Its safety profile does not meaningfully change with exposure route because it is not readily absorbed and is not reactive on skin.

5 of 16

“BIS-AMINOPROPYL DIMETHICONE?”Here!

Conditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: Provides slip, softness, and shine to hair, and helps reduce breakage during combing by coating the hair shaft.

A silicone polymer modified with amino groups, part of the broader family of amodimethicones used in hair care.

What the evidence says

We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.

Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed

Context

Used in rinse-off and leave-on hair products alike, typically at low percentages. Silicones of this kind sit on the hair surface rather than penetrating skin, which limits systemic exposure concerns.

6 of 16

“Rosa Gallica Flower Extract?”Here!French rose extract

OtherConditioning agentPlant

Why it’s here: Formulators add it for fragrance, a light natural scent, and as a marketing and sensory cue of botanical, traditional skincare. It is sometimes credited with mild soothing or antioxidant properties owing to the polyphenols found in rose petals, though it is rarely present at a concentration high enough to be the main active ingredient in a formula.

An extract made from the petals of Rosa gallica, one of the older cultivated rose species, typically prepared by soaking or processing the flowers to pull out water- or oil-soluble plant compounds.

What the evidence says

Rose extracts have been studied in small laboratory settings for antioxidant activity, largely due to their polyphenol content, but there is little clinical research specifically on Rosa gallica flower extract in finished cosmetic products at the concentrations actually used. It is generally regarded as low-risk, though as a fragrance-contributing plant extract it carries the same general potential for contact sensitization that any botanical fragrance ingredient does in a small subset of users.

Context

Typically present at low concentrations as a minor or fragrance ingredient rather than a treatment-level active. Relevant mainly in leave-on products where its scent and any topical activity would linger longest.

Rumors

  1. Rose extract calms redness and reduces skin irritation.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • AROSEÈ — a brand: sells its own botanical skincare products
      How we know who this is
      • “Our story began long before AROSEÈ was officially founded.” (their page)
      • “Ariadne has always loved white roses — their quiet elegance and calm strength became the soul of our creations, inspiring our signature Rose Essence, the heart of our collection.” (their page)

7 of 16

“PANTHENOL?”Here!pro-vitamin B5

HumectantConditioning agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: Added as a humectant and conditioning agent; it helps hair and skin retain moisture and gives hair a smoother, glossier feel.

An alcohol form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) that converts to the vitamin once absorbed into skin or hair.

What the evidence says

The only cited source is a 2022 Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel safety assessment, which is an abstract-level review rather than new experimental data. It concludes that panthenol, pantothenic acid, and related derivatives are safe for use in cosmetics at the concentrations currently used in such products. The abstract does not provide specific concentration thresholds, dose-response data, or separate analysis by product type (leave-on vs rinse-off), so the basis for that safety finding is not detailed here.

Context

Used across rinse-off and leave-on products at a wide range of concentrations, commonly 1 to 5 percent, without a meaningful shift in safety profile between contexts.

8 of 16

“PANTHENYL ETHYL ETHER?”Here!

Conditioning agentHumectantSynthetic

Why it’s here: Used mainly in hair care as a conditioning agent, giving similar smoothing and moisturizing benefits to panthenol but with better performance in certain formulation bases.

A synthetic derivative of panthenol, modified to be more compatible with oil-based formulas.

What the evidence says

It is chemically related to panthenol, which has an extensive record of safe use, but dedicated independent safety studies specific to this ether derivative are limited in the public literature.

Context

Typically used at low concentrations in leave-in and rinse-off hair products. No indication that its structural modification introduces new safety concerns compared to panthenol.

9 of 16

“Histidine?”Here!

Conditioning agentAntioxidantSynthetic

Why it’s here: Used as a skin- and hair-conditioning agent, and sometimes as an antioxidant helper, drawing on its natural role in the body's own protein and pH-buffering systems.

An amino acid, one of the essential building blocks of proteins in the human body, also found naturally in skin and hair.

What the evidence says

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel evaluated α-amino acids, including histidine, as used in cosmetics and concluded they are safe as used based on dermal irritation and sensitization data. The review focused on topical, cosmetic-concentration exposure rather than occupational or industrial exposure. The abstract does not provide dose-by-dose detail or describe any adverse findings.

Context

Used at low concentrations in both rinse-off and leave-on products as a minor conditioning or functional ingredient.

Rumors

  1. Histidine is an antioxidant that soothes skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Paula's Choice — a brand: sells its own skincare products
      How we know who this is

  2. Histidine hydrates skin and supports the skin barrier.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • skinsort.com — we couldn’t open the site to see who runs it

  3. Histidine reduces static and frizz in hair.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • glooshi.com — we couldn’t open the site to see who runs it

  4. Histidine helps atopic dermatitis (eczema) and scalp irritation.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Divi — a brand: sells scalp and hair care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Divi partners with and educates stylists all across the country to bring quality scalp care to your local salon.” (their page)

  5. Histidine in shampoo and scalp serum helps prevent hair loss and promotes hair growth.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Divi — a brand: sells scalp and hair care products
      How we know who this is
      • “Divi partners with and educates stylists all across the country to bring quality scalp care to your local salon.” (their page)
Also used as a supplement, and in 1 other product →

10 of 16

“Fragrance?”Here!perfume, parfum

FragranceVaries by source

What “Fragrance” can hold

“Fragrance” — also written “Parfum” or “Aroma” — is one word standing in for a scent blend that can be dozens of separate ingredients. It is the one term the rules let a maker leave otherwise undisclosed, to protect the formula, so this single word is as far inside it as the label goes.

The rules do force some of it out: certain fragrance ingredients known to cause allergic reactions must be named on their own once they pass a set amount. When they are, you will see them listed separately — and we mark them.

That named-allergen list is growing — EU rules expanded it from 26 substances to about 80, phasing onto labels through 2028. Roll Call marks the long-established set for now, with more being added. So a label with nothing marked is not a promise there are none; it means none from the set we mark are separately listed.

How fragrance disclosure works

Rumors

  1. The single word "fragrance" on a label conceals dozens to hundreds of undisclosed chemicals.

    Sources cited — check not cleared.

    Measured as a biomarker.

    Who’s saying this

    • Campaign for Safe Cosmetics — an advocacy group: campaigns for safer cosmetics; program of Breast Cancer Prevention Partners
      How we know who this is
      • “The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC) leads the movement to make beauty and personal care products safer for all.” (their page)
      • “CSC is a program of Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (BCPP) , a national science-based advocacy organization working to prevent breast cancer by eliminating environmental exposures linked to the disease.” (their page)
Also in 7 other products →

11 of 16

“Citric Acid?”Here!the acid in citrus fruit

pH adjusterChelating agentExfoliantVaries by source

Why it’s here: Mainly used to adjust pH, bringing a formula down to a target acidity so it feels right on skin and hair and so other ingredients — some preservatives and thickeners in particular — perform as intended. It also shows up as a mild exfoliant at higher concentrations, and as a chelating agent that binds trace metals to keep a formula stable.

An organic acid found naturally in lemons, limes, and other citrus fruit, though the version in most products is made by fermenting sugar with a mold, Aspergillus niger, rather than squeezed from fruit. It is a fine white crystalline powder that dissolves readily in water.

What the evidence says

Citric acid has a long history of use in food and cosmetics and is reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, which found it safe as used. It can be irritating to broken or very sensitive skin at higher concentrations, which is a known and expected effect of most acids rather than a special hazard of this one.

Context

At the low levels used for pH adjustment, effects on skin are negligible. At the higher concentrations sometimes used for exfoliation, mild stinging or redness is possible, especially on sensitive skin, and sun sensitivity can increase slightly with regular use of acid exfoliants — sunscreen is the standard advice alongside them.

Rumors

  1. Citric acid helps with dandruff and dry scalp by balancing scalp pH.

    Does not supporthealth and safety evidence

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Livara — a brand: sells natural shea butter hair and skin care products
      How we know who this is
      • “At Livara, we believe that the body is a gem – a jewel that adorns our inner self.” (their page)
      • “Our products are Packed with Ugandan butters and oils, and exotic essential oils to soften and strengthen all sorts of hair.” (their page)

  2. Citric acid in hair care seals the hair cuticle, making hair shinier.

    Not gradedhealth and safety evidence

    Sources cited — no verdict reached.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Livara — a brand: sells natural shea butter hair and skin care products
      How we know who this is
      • “At Livara, we believe that the body is a gem – a jewel that adorns our inner self.” (their page)
      • “Our products are Packed with Ugandan butters and oils, and exotic essential oils to soften and strengthen all sorts of hair.” (their page)

  3. Citric acid in skin care causes skin irritation.

    Does not support — establishedhealth and safety evidence

    Measured as an outcome.

    Who’s saying this

    • Medical News Today — a publisher: health information; trademark of Healthline Media, an RVO Health company
      How we know who this is
      • “The Medical News Today team is committed to bringing you accurate, trustworthy, and unbiased health information.” (their page)
      • “Healthline Media is an RVO Health Company.” (their page)

  4. Citric acid exfoliates the skin, shedding dead cells to reveal brighter skin.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • Refinery29 — a publisher: lifestyle, fashion and beauty media; earns commission on linked products
      How we know who this is
      • “Refinery29 is a creative global platform for the curious and the culturally tapped in.” (their page)
      • “If you purchase any of these products, we may earn a commission.” (their page)

  5. Citric acid strengthens damaged hair by reinforcing weakened hair bonds.

    We haven’t found evidence strong enough to support this or rule it out.

    What was measured is not yet noted.

    Who’s saying this

    • L'Oréal Paris — a brand: sells cosmetics: makeup, skincare and haircare
      How we know who this is
      • “As the biggest beauty brand in the world, L'Oréal Paris has an unparalleled commitment to technology, research and innovation and providing groundbreaking, high-quality products for women and men of all ages and ethnicities.” (their page)
Also used as a supplement, and in 8 other products →

12 of 16

“Polysorbate 20?”Here!

EmulsifierSurfactantSynthetic

Why it’s here: Its main job is helping oil and water mix, so it is used to blend fragrance oils or essential oils into water-based products, to solubilize small amounts of oil in toners and sprays, and sometimes as a mild emulsifier or cleansing agent in low-foaming washes.

A synthetic compound made by combining sorbitol (a sugar alcohol) with fatty acids and ethylene oxide. It is a nonionic surfactant, meaning it has no electrical charge, which makes it gentle relative to many cleansing surfactants.

What the evidence says

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has found polysorbates safe as used in cosmetics.

Context

Used at low concentrations, often under 1 to 3 percent, as a solubilizer rather than a primary cleanser. Relevant to both rinse-off and leave-on products; the trace-contaminant concern is a manufacturing quality control issue rather than a property of the polysorbate molecule itself.

13 of 16

“PHENOXYETHANOL?”Here!

PreservativeSynthetic

Why it’s here: Prevents the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold in water-containing formulas, extending shelf life and protecting the product and the user from contamination.

An ether alcohol used widely as a preservative, occurring in trace amounts in nature (green tea, for instance) but produced synthetically for cosmetic use.

What the evidence says

The SCCS and CIR consider phenoxyethanol safe at concentrations up to 1 percent, the limit set in the EU and widely followed elsewhere. Concerns raised in some consumer discourse about infant exposure stemmed from a 2008 French health agency caution for products used on the diaper area of infants; subsequent reviews, including by the SCCS, reaffirmed the 1 percent limit as safe across ages.

Context

The 1 percent concentration cap is the key context: safety assessments are tied to that limit, and it applies in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

14 of 16

“Benzyl Alcohol?”Here!

PreservativeFragranceSolventVaries by sourceEU-disclosed fragrance allergen

Why it’s here: Works as a preservative to prevent microbial growth, and also as a fragrance ingredient and solvent that helps other ingredients dissolve.

A simple aromatic alcohol found naturally in fruits like apricots and cranberries, and in essential oils such as jasmine and ylang-ylang. It is also produced synthetically for cosmetic use.

What the evidence says

The CIR and the EU's SCCS have both reviewed benzyl alcohol and consider it safe at the concentrations used in cosmetics, generally up to about 1 percent as a preservative. It can cause contact allergy in a small subset of people, which is why it appears on the EU's list of fragrance allergens requiring disclosure when present above a threshold.

Context

Concentration matters: preservative use is typically well below levels associated with irritation. Leave-on products carry a slightly higher chance of triggering sensitivity in already-allergic individuals than rinse-off products, simply due to longer skin contact.

15 of 16

“Sodium Benzoate?”Here!

OtherFragrancePreservativeSynthetic

Why it’s here: It is a preservative, added to stop mold, yeast, and some bacteria from growing in water-based products, protecting both the formula and the person using it. It works best in slightly acidic formulas, which is why it is often paired with citric acid or another mild acid.

The sodium salt of benzoic acid, a compound found naturally in low levels in cranberries, plums, and some other fruits, but produced synthetically for commercial use.

What the evidence says

Sodium benzoate has a long history of use in both food and cosmetics and is reviewed as safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review and permitted as a food additive by the FDA at regulated levels.

Context

Used at low percentages, generally under 1 percent, in both rinse-off and leave-on products. The benzene question comes from food science rather than cosmetics: sodium benzoate and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in the same liquid can form small amounts of benzene when it is warmed or lit, which FDA researchers measured in soft drinks under accelerated heat and UV conditions. We have found no study measuring that reaction in a cosmetic formulation, so what is on record is the chemistry and the drinks it was measured in, not an exposure from a product used on skin.

16 of 16

“DISODIUM EDTA?”Here!

Chelating agentSynthetic

Why it’s here: Added in small amounts as a chelating agent — it grabs trace metal ions in the formula that could otherwise degrade fragrance, discolor the product, or reduce the effectiveness of preservatives.

The disodium salt of EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), a small synthetic molecule that binds tightly to metal ions.

What the evidence says

The CIR has reviewed EDTA salts and considers them safe at the low concentrations used in cosmetics. It is not well absorbed through intact skin, and its use in cosmetics is at levels far below those studied for other exposure routes.

Context

Used at very low percentages, usually well under 1 percent, in both rinse-off and leave-on products; its role is purely to stabilize the formula rather than to act on skin.

Educational information, not medical or safety advice. Consult a professional for allergies or medical concerns.