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“Oryza Sativa Bran Water?”Here!
Fragrance
We know this one by name. We haven’t written its introduction yet — check back shortly.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Dr.Melaxin PEEL SHOT EXFOLIATING BLACK RICE AMPOULE
39 ingredients.
The roll
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“Dipropylene Glycol?”Here!DPG
FragranceSolventThickenerSynthetic
Why it’s here: It dissolves fragrance oils and other ingredients that don't mix well with water, and it helps keep formulas from drying out by drawing in a small amount of moisture. It's a workhorse ingredient that shows up in everything from perfumes to lotions, mostly doing quiet, unglamorous solvent work.
A clear, nearly odorless synthetic liquid related to propylene glycol, used widely as a solvent and carrier in cosmetics and fragrances.
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“Water?”Here!
SolventMineral
Why it’s here: Serves as the solvent base that dissolves or disperses other ingredients, forming the foundation of most creams, lotions, shampoos, and gels.
Plain water, almost always the largest ingredient by weight in a formula and typically purified or deionized before use.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
Present in nearly all rinse-off and leave-on products; its listing high on an ingredient list simply reflects that it makes up most of the product's weight, not a formulation choice worth scrutinizing.
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“Tripropylene Glycol?”Here!
AntioxidantEmulsifierHumectantSynthetic
Why it’s here: It works as a solvent and carrier, most often to dissolve fragrance oils so they blend evenly into a formula. It can also help keep products from drying out by holding onto a bit of water.
A clear, slightly syrupy synthetic liquid made from propylene oxide, chemically related to propylene glycol but built from three linked units instead of one.
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“Cellulose?”Here!plant fiber, often as microcrystalline cellulose
ThickenerExfoliantOtherPlant
Why it’s here: Used as a thickener, texturizing agent, and mild abrasive or absorbent, depending on the particle form. It can also give a mattifying feel in powders and some skincare.
A carbohydrate that makes up the structural fiber of plants. In cosmetics it is usually derived from wood pulp or cotton and processed into a fine powder or film.
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“Propanediol?”Here!
SolventThickenerVaries by source
Why it’s here: Used as a humectant and solvent, helping products draw and hold moisture and helping dissolve other ingredients like fragrance and preservatives.
A small organic molecule, often plant-derived from corn sugar fermentation, that is a clear, odorless liquid.
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“Butylene Glycol?”Here!
HumectantFragranceConditioning agentSolventThickenerSynthetic
Why it’s here: Draws in moisture, helps dissolve other ingredients, and gives formulas a lighter, less sticky feel than some other humectants.
A small synthetic molecule from the alcohol family, used as a clear, colorless liquid.
What the evidence says
The only cited study is a retrospective patch-testing review of 893 dermatology clinic patients already undergoing allergy evaluation, not a sample of general cosmetic users. It found 1.46% of these patients reacted to butylene glycol on patch testing, with a notable cross-reactivity to propylene glycol in BG-allergic patients. This shows contact allergy to butylene glycol can occur in individuals prone to allergic contact dermatitis, but it does not quantify risk at typical cosmetic-use concentrations or in the general population, and no rinse-off versus leave-on distinction is made.
Context
CIR review covers use across both rinse-off and leave-on product types.
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“Glycerin?”Here!glycerin, glycerol
HumectantConditioning agentVaries by source
Why it’s here: A humectant — it pulls water from the air and from deeper skin layers to the surface, helping products feel less drying and skin feel softer. It also helps stabilize emulsions and can improve the texture of soaps and lotions.
A small, simple molecule with three water-loving arms, produced by splitting fats and oils (plant or animal) or made synthetically. It has been a staple of skincare and soap for over a century.
What the evidence says
One of the most studied humectants in cosmetics. CIR has reviewed it as safe for use in cosmetic products. Occasional reports of mild irritation or a sticky feel exist at high concentrations, but no established safety concern at typical use levels.
Context
Works in both rinse-off and leave-on products. At very high concentrations in low-humidity conditions it can theoretically pull water out of skin rather than in, but this is not how it behaves at the levels used in commercial formulas.
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“Carbomer?”Here!
EmulsifierThickenerSynthetic
Why it’s here: It thickens liquids, stabilizes emulsions, and gives gels their characteristic smooth, non-greasy texture.
A synthetic polymer made from acrylic acid, used in powder or liquid form that swells into a clear gel when mixed with water and neutralized.
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“1,2-Hexanediol?”Here!
SolventSynthetic
Why it’s here: Serves multiple functions: as a solvent to help dissolve other ingredients, as a humectant contributing to texture, and notably as a preservative booster that enhances the effectiveness of other preservative systems, allowing some formulas to reduce traditional preservative levels.
A small glycol molecule used widely in cosmetic formulations, structurally similar to other diols like propanediol.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products; its preservative-boosting function depends on the overall formulation and concentration.
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“Saccharide Isomerate?”Here!
HumectantPlant
Why it’s here: Used as a humectant to bind water at the skin's surface and support the skin's natural moisture barrier function, often marketed for extended hydration.
A carbohydrate complex derived from plant sugars, usually corn or wheat starch, processed to resemble the sugar structures naturally found in skin's outer layers.
What the evidence says
Industry safety reviews describe Saccharide Isomerate as well tolerated in cosmetic formulations. Dedicated, publicly available Cosmetic Ingredient Review monographs specific to this exact ingredient name are limited, so the evidence base is thinner than for more common humectants like glycerin.
Context
Relevant mainly to leave-on moisturizing products, where sustained surface hydration is the intended benefit.
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“Isopropyl Alcohol?”Here!rubbing alcohol
OtherFragranceSolventThickenerSynthetic
Why it’s here: In formulas it acts as a solvent, carrying other ingredients into solution, and as a quick-drying vehicle in things like hand sanitizers, nail products, toners, and perfumes. It also helps thin out thicker mixtures and speeds drying on the skin or nail surface.
A small, fast-evaporating alcohol molecule, closely related to the kind in drinks but not meant for drinking. It is made industrially from propylene and is the same substance sold in pharmacies as a disinfectant.
What the evidence says
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has assessed isopropyl alcohol and found it safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It is a known skin and eye irritant at higher concentrations, which is well documented, and repeated exposure can dry out skin by stripping surface oils. The FDA also recognizes it as an effective antiseptic active ingredient in over-the-counter drug products at specific concentrations.
Context
Concentration and contact time matter: brief, rinse-off, or quick-evaporating leave-on use (as in a toner or hand sanitizer) differs from prolonged occlusive contact. CIR's safety conclusion applies to use levels typical of cosmetic formulations, not to concentrated industrial-grade product.
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“Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate?”Here!
EmulsifierConditioning agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: Used to soften skin, improve spreadability, and help water and oil phases blend in a formula, while contributing some humectant character from its PCA component.
An ester formed from glycereth-25 (a glycerin derivative modified with ethylene oxide), PCA (a natural moisturizing factor component), and isostearic acid. It is a specialty emollient and mild emulsifier.
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“Hydroxyacetophenone?”Here!
AntioxidantSynthetic
Why it’s here: It helps preserve formulas and is often included alongside other preservative systems to boost their effectiveness; it also has mild antioxidant and deodorizing properties.
A synthetic compound related to acetophenone, used in small amounts in cosmetic formulas. It is not a fragrance in the perfume sense, though it has a faint odor of its own.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
CIR's safety conclusion applies to the concentrations used in cosmetic products as surveyed by the industry at the time of review.
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“Cetyl Ethylhexanoate?”Here!cetyl octanoate
EmollientSynthetic
Why it’s here: Functions as an emollient, giving products a smooth, silky slip and helping other ingredients spread evenly across skin or hair without feeling heavy.
An ester formed from cetyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol, and ethylhexanoic acid. It is a light, non-greasy oil-like liquid used widely in skin and hair products.
What the evidence says
The CIR Expert Panel reviewed animal and clinical data for cetyl ethylhexanoate and related alkyl ethylhexanoates, including at concentrations as high as 77.3% in rinse-off products and 52% in leave-on lipstick, and concluded the ingredients are safe as used in cosmetics when formulated to be nonirritating. The assessment relies partly on extrapolation from data on structurally related constituent alcohols rather than ingredient-specific testing for every use. No adverse findings are described in the available abstract text.
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“Ethylhexyl Palmitate?”Here!
EmollientFragranceSynthetic
Why it’s here: It is used as an emollient to give lotions and creams a smooth, non-greasy slip, and it can also help dissolve pigments or other ingredients that don't mix well with water.
A synthetic ester made by combining palmitic acid (a fatty acid) with 2-ethylhexanol (a fatty alcohol). It is a light, oily liquid at room temperature.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
CIR's assessment covered use in both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products.
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“Squalane?”Here!
EmollientConditioning agentVaries by source
Why it’s here: It is a lightweight emollient that softens and smooths skin without feeling greasy, and it resists going rancid the way many unsaturated oils do.
A stable, saturated oil that is chemically very close to a substance your own skin already makes. It can be derived from olives, sugarcane, or (historically) shark liver, though plant sources now dominate the market.
What the evidence says
EPA's TSCA screening review compiles multiple human and animal studies directly relevant to topical use: three human skin-sensitization studies using undiluted (100%) squalane under repeated occlusive patch conditions all reported negative results, and four human skin-irritation studies plus two rabbit studies (using 50-100% squalane) also reported negative results. Oral repeated-dose, reproductive/developmental, and genotoxicity studies in animals likewise found no adverse effects up to the highest doses tested, and dermal absorption was described as low. Some underlying studies note purity not reported or non-GLP status, and EPA's TSCA jurisdiction formally excludes personal-care products, but the hazard data itself (human patch studies with undiluted squalane) reflect dermal exposure consistent with cosmetic use and show no evidence of irritation or sensitization.
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“Ethylhexylglycerin?”Here!
OtherConditioning agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: It boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, allowing formulators to use lower amounts of them, and it also softens skin feel and can reduce the sharpness of some preservative systems' scent.
A synthetic compound derived from glycerin, commonly used alongside preservatives rather than as one on its own.
What the evidence says
A large North American patch-test study found that ethylhexylglycerin caused allergic patch-test reactions in only 0.25% of tested patients, a rate the authors describe as similar to other low-allergenic preservatives like parabens and phenoxyethanol. When reactions did occur, they were most often linked to personal care products such as moisturizers, lotions, and creams, and were judged clinically relevant in about 80% of positive cases. This is a single retrospective patch-test dataset without dose-response or long-term outcome data, and it indicates a rare but real contact-allergy potential rather than a common or well-established risk.
Context
Used in both rinse-off and leave-on products, almost always at concentrations under 1%, paired with a primary preservative rather than replacing one.
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“Sucrose Distearate?”Here!sugar ester
EmollientEmulsifierConditioning agentSurfactantPlant
Why it’s here: Functions as an emulsifier, helping oil and water stay mixed, and also contributes a soft, silky skin feel.
An ester made by combining sucrose (table sugar) with two molecules of stearic acid, a fatty acid common in plant and animal fats. It is part of a family of sugar-based emulsifiers.
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“Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride?”Here!fractionated coconut oil
FragranceConditioning agentPlant
Why it’s here: Used as an emollient to soften skin and help other ingredients spread smoothly, without the greasy feel or scent of regular coconut oil.
A lightweight oil made by combining two fatty acids naturally found in coconut and palm oil with glycerin. It stays liquid at room temperature, unlike whole coconut oil.
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“Parfum?”Here!
OtherFragrance
What “Fragrance” can hold
“Fragrance” — also written “Parfum” or “Aroma” — is one word standing in for a scent blend that can be dozens of separate ingredients. It is the one term the rules let a maker leave otherwise undisclosed, to protect the formula, so this single word is as far inside it as the label goes.
The rules do force some of it out: certain fragrance ingredients known to cause allergic reactions must be named on their own once they pass a set amount. When they are, you will see them listed separately — and we mark them.
That named-allergen list is growing — EU rules expanded it from 26 substances to about 80, phasing onto labels through 2028. Roll Call marks the long-established set for now, with more being added. So a label with nothing marked is not a promise there are none; it means none from the set we mark are separately listed.
How fragrance disclosure works22 of 39
“Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract?”Here!gardenia extract
AntioxidantPlant
Why it’s here: It is used as a conditioning agent, included for its botanical profile and purported skin-feel benefits rather than as a targeted active.
A hydrolyzed extract derived from the fruit or flower of Gardenia jasminoides (sometimes labeled Gardenia florida), an ornamental shrub cultivated in Asia.
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“Hydrolyzed Malt Extract?”Here!barley malt extract
Conditioning agentPlant
Why it’s here: Formulators add it as a conditioning ingredient, meant to improve the feel of skin or hair and sometimes to help hold moisture on the surface.
An extract derived from malted barley (Hordeum vulgare) that has been broken down, or hydrolyzed, into smaller peptide and sugar fragments.
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“Hydrolyzed Viola Tricolor Extract?”Here!wild pansy extract, heartsease extract
OtherPlant
Why it’s here: It is included as a skin-conditioning ingredient, part of a formula's claim to botanical or soothing character rather than as a measured active.
A hydrolyzed extract of Viola tricolor, the wild pansy, a small flowering plant long used in folk herbalism for skin complaints.
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“DISODIUM EDTA?”Here!
Chelating agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: Added in small amounts as a chelating agent — it grabs trace metal ions in the formula that could otherwise degrade fragrance, discolor the product, or reduce the effectiveness of preservatives.
The disodium salt of EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), a small synthetic molecule that binds tightly to metal ions.
What the evidence says
The CIR has reviewed EDTA salts and considers them safe at the low concentrations used in cosmetics. It is not well absorbed through intact skin, and its use in cosmetics is at levels far below those studied for other exposure routes.
Context
Used at very low percentages, usually well under 1 percent, in both rinse-off and leave-on products; its role is purely to stabilize the formula rather than to act on skin.
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“Hydrogenated Lecithin?”Here!hydrogenated soy or egg lecithin
EmulsifierConditioning agentPlant
Why it’s here: Used as an emollient and conditioning agent, and sometimes as part of an emulsifying system, because it helps bind oil and water components and leaves skin feeling smooth.
Lecithin, a fat-like substance found in plant seeds (often soy or sunflower) and egg yolks, that has been chemically hydrogenated to make it more stable and less prone to oxidation.
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“Hyaluronic acid?”Here!hyaluronan
HumectantConditioning agentVaries by source
Why it’s here: It is a humectant: it draws and holds water at the skin's surface, which is why it shows up in moisturizers and serums aiming for a plumped, hydrated look.
A naturally occurring large sugar molecule found throughout the human body, especially in skin and joint fluid, where it holds water and gives tissue its cushion. The cosmetic version is usually produced by bacterial fermentation rather than extracted from animals.
What the evidence says
The cited CIR safety assessment reviewed hyaluronic acid and its sodium/potassium salts as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 2% and found no toxicity, immunogenicity, sensitization, reproductive/developmental toxicity, or genotoxicity across a range of animal studies. It also notes widespread clinical use, primarily by injection, has been free of significant adverse reactions. The panel concluded these ingredients are safe for use in cosmetics as described. No concentration-dependent adverse effects at cosmetic use levels are reported in this document.
Context
In leave-on products it functions primarily as a surface humectant; effects depend on molecular weight and formulation.
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“Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid?”Here!hyaluronic acid (small molecule)
Conditioning agentHumectantBiotech
Why it’s here: The smaller fragment size is marketed as allowing better penetration into the upper layers of skin than full-size hyaluronic acid, which sits mostly on the surface. It functions as a humectant, drawing moisture to the skin.
Hyaluronic acid that has been broken down into smaller fragments through a hydrolysis process. Hyaluronic acid itself is a naturally occurring sugar found throughout the body, especially in skin and joints, where it holds onto water.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
Relevant mainly to leave-on products where sustained hydration at the skin surface is the goal.
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“Sodium Hyaluronate?”Here!
HumectantConditioning agentBiotech
Why it’s here: It draws water to the skin's surface and holds onto it, giving a plumping, hydrating effect in serums, moisturizers, and some injectable fillers.
The sodium salt form of hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring molecule found in human skin and connective tissue; the salt form is smaller and more stable for use in formulations.
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“Oryza Sativa Extract?”Here!
ExfoliantOtherConditioning agent
We know this one by name. We haven’t written its introduction yet — check back shortly.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
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“Niacinamide?”Here!vitamin B3
Conditioning agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: Used for its effects on skin appearance and barrier function; formulators include it to help with the look of skin tone, texture, and moisture retention.
A form of vitamin B3 (niacin) that is water-soluble and commonly formulated into serums, moisturizers, and treatment products.
What the evidence says
Niacinamide has a substantial body of published research, including clinical trials, supporting benefits for skin barrier function and appearance at typical cosmetic concentrations (around 2-5%). CIR has reviewed it as safe for use in cosmetics.
Context
Most studied in leave-on products at concentrations in the low single-digit percentages; effects described in the literature are tied to that range.
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“Citric Acid?”Here!the acid in citrus fruit
pH adjusterChelating agentExfoliantVaries by source
Why it’s here: Mainly used to adjust pH, bringing a formula down to a target acidity so it feels right on skin and hair and so other ingredients — some preservatives and thickeners in particular — perform as intended. It also shows up as a mild exfoliant at higher concentrations, and as a chelating agent that binds trace metals to keep a formula stable.
An organic acid found naturally in lemons, limes, and other citrus fruit, though the version in most products is made by fermenting sugar with a mold, Aspergillus niger, rather than squeezed from fruit. It is a fine white crystalline powder that dissolves readily in water.
What the evidence says
Citric acid has a long history of use in food and cosmetics and is reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, which found it safe as used. It can be irritating to broken or very sensitive skin at higher concentrations, which is a known and expected effect of most acids rather than a special hazard of this one.
Context
At the low levels used for pH adjustment, effects on skin are negligible. At the higher concentrations sometimes used for exfoliation, mild stinging or redness is possible, especially on sensitive skin, and sun sensitivity can increase slightly with regular use of acid exfoliants — sunscreen is the standard advice alongside them.
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“Sodium Citrate?”Here!
pH adjusterChelating agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: A workhorse pH adjuster and buffer. It keeps a formula's acidity steady over time and shelf life, and it can also soften water by binding calcium and magnesium ions, which helps surfactants foam better.
The sodium salt of citric acid, the same acid found in citrus fruit. It is manufactured by neutralizing citric acid with a sodium base, not squeezed from lemons.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
Used at low percentages in both rinse-off and leave-on products, mainly to hold pH in a target range rather than to do anything to skin directly.
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“Charcoal Powder?”Here!activated charcoal
ExfoliantOtherPlant
Why it’s here: Valued for its adsorptive surface, which is thought to bind oil and impurities, so it appears in cleansers, masks, and soaps marketed for oily or congested skin.
A fine black powder made by burning organic material such as wood or coconut shells at high temperature, often further processed ("activated") to increase its surface area.
What the evidence says
Charcoal has a long history of use in food and pharmaceutical settings as an adsorbent, which supports its basic safety, but there is limited clinical research specifically testing its claimed benefits in cosmetic products on skin.
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“Polyglycerin-10?”Here!polyglycerol-10
HumectantConditioning agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: Works as a humectant, pulling water into the skin's surface, and can also help stabilize formulas and improve the feel of a product.
A chain of ten glycerin (glycerol) units linked together, made by polymerizing glycerin. It is a thick, syrupy liquid related to the glycerin found in many moisturizers.
What the evidence says
Polyglycerins are chemically related to glycerin, an ingredient with an extensive and long-standing safety record. Dedicated review-body assessments specific to Polyglycerin-10 are limited, so direct regulatory conclusions on this exact polymer are harder to point to.
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“Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate?”Here!
Conditioning agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: Used as an emulsifier and emollient, helping to stabilize mixtures of oil and water while giving products a smooth, non-greasy finish.
An ester made from polyglycerol-10 and myristic acid, a fatty acid naturally found in coconut and nutmeg oils. It belongs to the same polyglyceryl ester family as Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate.
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“Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate?”Here!
Conditioning agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: Functions as an emulsifier that helps blend oil and water phases, and contributes to a product's texture and skin feel, often valued for being derived from relatively simple, naturally sourced building blocks.
An ester formed from polyglycerol-10 (ten linked glycerin units) and stearic acid, a common fatty acid. It belongs to a family of polyglyceryl esters used as gentle emulsifiers.
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“Gluconolactone?”Here!
Chelating agentConditioning agentSynthetic
Why it’s here: It exfoliates the skin's surface and holds moisture at the same time, and because its molecule is larger it penetrates more slowly than AHAs, making it a common choice for sensitive-skin exfoliating products. It also binds trace metals, which helps stabilize formulas.
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) derived from glucose, a larger and more gentle molecule than the alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic acid.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
Used in leave-on exfoliating and anti-aging products; its larger molecular size compared to AHAs is the reason it's marketed as gentler for sensitive skin.
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“Sodium Dehydroacetate?”Here!
PreservativeSynthetic
Why it’s here: It is added to formulas to inhibit the growth of bacteria, yeast, and mold, helping extend shelf life, often alongside other preservatives.
The sodium salt of dehydroacetic acid, a synthetic organic acid used as a preservative.
What the evidence says
We haven’t found a source for this one that you can open and check, so we’re not summarizing the evidence.
Look it up yourself — starting points, not our findings: PubChem · PubMed
Context
CIR's safety conclusion applies to the concentrations and conditions of use reported in cosmetic formulations, not to higher exposures outside that range.
Educational information, not medical or safety advice. Consult a professional for allergies or medical concerns.